[Intro]

I would like to introduce to you my fancy Scifi Box! Or crate? Treasure chest? Do I need to model some gold coins for you to fill this thing up with? Hehe.

I wanted to produce a crate of sorts that'd be larger than the print volume, but assembled in a way that it didn't feel like it was just a model chopped up to fit into a printer's build volume. This is the results of those efforts. Part of my goal with this too was to make it easy to print, have cool styling, and have some sort of latch/locking mechanism (although it is primitive, it is still cool). For bonus points, I made it stackable!

[What you'll need]

Tools:

Hex Driver #3 & #2.5

Drill bits for clearing out holes

File for cleaning up edges where berm is used, or whatever tool you like for that job.

Hardware:

16 M4 Nuts (Used for connecting the End Caps, Ends, And Mid section together.
8 M4x25 (Used to connect the Ends to the Mid section)
2 M4x30 (Used for the hinge)
2 M3x5 (Used on the Lock. You can Use M3x6 screws, but don't over tighten them, as it'll push through and show on the front)
14 M4x10 (6 for the Lock, and 8 are used to connect the End Caps to the Ends)

Filament I used: (For reference! Use the colors you see fit!)

Mid - Bambu PLA Iridium Gold Metallic

Ends - Bambu PLA Matte Charcoal

Hardware - Bambu PLA Basic Bronze 
 

[Getting ready to print]

You're going to need about 2kg of filament for this case. It'll be about 1kg for the ends, and a little less for the mid/lid section. I modeled everything to be relatively easy to print, but they're still big full plate models, so make sure you've got things like warping under control (On the P1/X1 for example, turning off the aux fan!), that your bed is super clean, and yeah. These are big prints, so let's check ourselves before we wreck ourselves, because a failed print here can be costly.

There is a little post processing that should be done with the models once they're off the build plate. Holes will need to be cleared for where the screws go, as I modeled a flat plane in place to help keep them clean. Additionally, on the lid, you'll want to make sure a screw can insert into the hole freely, and use a drill to clear it out if need be.

[Assembly]

Let's get to it, shall we? We'll start with the lid. Make sure a m4 sized screw will fit freely into the hole. We don't want it super loose, but we shouldn't have to screw it in. 

Next, we'll assemble the lock mechanism. Two M3x5mm screws are used as stops for turning the lock. You can use 6mm length screws, but be careful not to put them in too far, as it'll push out and blemish the front surface of the lid. For everything else, use M4x10mm screws.

Now it's time for the body.

1. Clear out the holes using a drill, so the screw can pass freely through.  (Planes were modeled in to help support the screw holes during printing)

2. Inset 8 M4 nuts on either side of the mid section into the slots. 

(Keep in mind these drawings show the assembly of one side, but both sides should be done at the same time)

3. Make sure you clear out the holes with a drill bit, like we did in Step 1 for the main body.

4. Now, we'll use M4x25mm screws to attach the ends to the main body. Do this for both sides.

5. For the hinge, we'll use a M4x30mm screw, or longer. These are just pushed in, and to hold them in completely, we'll insert a plug/dowl to help keep them in place. Before you put the screw/dowl in for the lid, position the lid in place (This step is not pictured!). Make sure you're happy with the fit of everything before you secure the lid, as once you get the screws and plugs/dowls in, it'll be difficult to remove them.

6. The lid should be installed at this point, with both ends installed. From here we'll attach the end caps. Firstly we'll insert 4 M4 nuts on each end.

7. We'll use 4 M4x10mm screws on each side, screwed into the holes inset into the bigger holes! Once we have all of those in, we'll cover them up with the end plugs. The slot in the plugs is sized to work best with a coin. 

That's it! Enjoy!

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