This Halo M6G does not require an AMS. 

There are 4 parts split onto 3 plates [with each color used for the print in the images].

Plate 1: Small Parts – Matte Ash Grey (11102)

Plate 2: M6G Frame & Laser – Matte Charcoal (11101) 

Plate 3: M6G Upper – Matte Ash Grey (11102)

You can find each of the filaments used in the Bill of Materials beneath this description. 

How do I assemble my M6G?

After you've printed all the parts, slide the laser [under barrel attachment] into place under the M6G upper, and then, the M6G frame behind it. If done properly the frame should snap into place and the laser shouldn't wiggle much. I would recommend an adhesive [superglue or Gloop!] for the laser, but you don't necessarily need it for the frame. 

What kind of epoxy/adhesive did you use?

I use J-B Weld Pro Size ClearWeld 5-Minute Set Epoxy for large contact areas, J-B Weld Superweld™ Light Activated Instant Glue for edges/cracks, and Gorilla Super Glue Gel for small contact areas. 

How do I assemble my M6G with an A1 Mini?

After printing all parts, insert the peg into the back of the front upper. Then, slide the back upper onto the peg until it collides with the front upper. From there, follow the instructions above. 

For the small parts, you will need to use superglue for the small cylinders above the trigger. The cylinders toward the front of the barrel, by the rear sight, and safety switch should snap in.

In a coming update, I will make all small parts ‘snap-in-place.’

Will the gun stay together?

The gun should hold up well if the print quality is optimal and you used proper adhesive. I wouldn't recommend this M6G for children unless you ditch the small parts, Plate 1, altogether.

How do I keep my mag from falling out of the lower?

I recommend a small piece of Velcro [~¼ inch] on the bottom front of the lower and on the front of the magazine, so when the magazine is fully inserted the Velcro connects.

Can I fix the gap between the uppers with my A1 Mini print?

There's nothing I can do to fix this on my end because the dimensions are ‘flawless’. However, you can try these three solutions to fix the gap. 

1. Shorten the peg – this will be the fastest solution if the gap is caused by the peg hitting the end walls.

1. Try ‘0.16mm High Quality’ print settings. There are slight fluxes in every print, so this should get you closer to the true dimensions.

2. Unlock the scale of the Upper Back [since it's a smaller print], and increase it be the amount of layer lines seemingly missing from your print. The best way to check this is to bust out the phone, take a picture, and zoom in to guesstimate how many are missing. Then, if you are still using the '0.20mm Standard' print settings, multiply the amount of missing lines by 0.20, and add the total amount to the Z axis [after unlocking ‘Uniform Scale’]. For example, if you have 7 layers lines missing, you'd do 7 x 0.20, and add 1.4mm to the Z axis.

What do I do if my trigger fails?

If your model has an internal overhang where the trigger goes, download Trigger Fix v1. If your model has flat walls, download Trigger Fix v2.

UPDATES:

1/10/2025: Fixed poor print quality near bottom of trigger frame.

1/12/2025: Added A1 Mini print option. Updated lower for snap-in safety. Modified safety switch for snap.

1/13/2025: Added ‘Trigger Fix’ print profile for lowers without trigger.

1/16/2025: Lower decreased by 5% while fixing trigger. Increased back up to 75%.

1/22/2025: ‘Reloadable Lower’ option now available. Print Plate 3 instead of Plate 1.

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