The A1's light for the camera, sadly is lacking. Searching around, I found a LED light strip that plugged into the 2nd AMS port that gave off so much more light, but it was sticky backed to mount on the upper cross arm. I don't like just sticking stuff to the printer like that, plus had items on the top bar (the spool arm & tray) that got in the way. So time to make a mounting arm 

This is a customizable system, due to not everyone has Z braces installed or may have other items in their way. I wanted the flexibility to tweak it as easily as possible. The system consists of the following:

• Brackets to snap on the top bar - [2 is the minimum if you use a PETG Cross Bar, 3-4 if you use a PLA Cross Bar]
• Cross bar - [highly recommended to PRINT this part in PETG*] - the LED strip attaches to this
• Cable Clips - in different sizes, 3", 2" and 1.5"
• Switch mount - to hold the on/off switch

You'll need some type of mounting material, like clear magic tape or simple 3M double-sided tape. You'll also need some scissors (if you need to trim the cable clips) and of course the LED light strip. See below for the one I purchased off AliExpress. You can find similar models on both Amazon & Ebay.

* Updated info on the Cross bar  - I tend to print nearly 24/7, which means that light has been on for days. Today I noticed the WHOLE cross bar was sagging! So Now I HIGHLY recommend printing the cross bar in PETG (clear or Translucent if possible - better heat tolerance), this light strip produces enough heat to cause PLA to warp under constant use. If you are unable to print in PETG, you can print additional brackets to help support the bar. It DID NOT pop out of the brackets, just the PLA bar sagged in the middle, the sticky on the strip was still holding!

In my case, I printed a 3rd bracket in the same BL PETG translucent Olive that I printed the new cross bar. My old bar sagged only in the middle, so I figured this in combination with printing the bar in PETG, should prevent the sagging. Since I had to remove the LED strip, I used some heat resist tape on the ends and a tiny zip-strip in the middle, to make sure the strip stays put. It was still very sticky, but my luck w/ reusing sticky backed items isn't very good. Having it unstick mid-print would be a nightmare!

(last 3 pictures updated w/ new cross bar & 3rd bracket)

Installation is easy!

1. Measure the leg that you want to run the cable down. If you have braces, measure down to the bottom. Depending on your distance, figure out how many Cables clips you'll need (sizes are 3", 2" &/or 1.5"). I printed mine in BL PLA Basic Silver & BL PETG-HF Lime Green to match my machine.
2. Print your BRACKETS, SWITCH MOUNT, CROSS BAR & the CABLE CLIPS. Brim is on, but that's the only support needed. 
3. Snap the BRACKETS on to the top bar, space them around other items as needed.
4. Attach LED strip to the flat bottom of the CROSS BAR. I used a small piece of masking tape to hold both ends in place, but this is not needed. Once the light is attached, snap the CROSS BAR into the bottom of the BRACKETS.
5. Put your mounting material (TAPE) on the CABLE CLIPS, then one at a time, slide them on the cable and work your way down to the bottom of the printer. Take care when bending the cable, don't make more than a 90 degree curve. If you need to, looping it will work better with lesser risk of damaging the wire inside.
6. Place a piece of mounting material (TAPE) on the SWITCH MOUNT, put the switch in, and find a good section to attach. Then plug it into the unused port (or either port if you don't have a AMS Lite installed).

Now you can see & the camera view will be usable!