Okedokie! So, there was a lot of fun that I had here because there are 2 custom type supports and a super specialized profile. This coffee cup was one of the most challenging designs I've done so far.
The first support is a little thicker and moreso about making sure that drooping does not happen. The second support has to do with retraction speeds and melt pattern. The reason why this print was so difficult is because when the nozzle goes from the base to the handle, the melt is constantly pushing forward. This meant that after a certain amount of time, even though the printer was printing just fine, there was a ton of strands, some tiny chunks were being pushed, and the PLA was offsetting with each melt until it caused a layer line shift.
In fact, even though I've never had this problem before, it was pushing the print off the bed, and I spent the majority of the day creating a very specialized print profile. It runs at roughly half the speed of the default profile for 0.8mm. The tiny nodules on the 2nd support help keep the PLA from pushing too overboard. The third and final custom support is to make sure it doesn't break. I found this area to be a weak point and it would just straight up fall off so I made it a little bulkier.
The last point is the inside of the coffee cup itself.
The first one is the loop hole for the earring is not circular. I had originally designed the model very differently.
As you can see, this one has a much more traditional style loop. However, just like with the handle, the speed of the nozzle and the thinness of the loop kept causing the upper half of the loop to break off. Therefore, I went with a more simplistic approach of just having no need to jump between the walls. Instead, the hole is no longer circular but it is also connected to both sides. The second part is just printing the thing at an angle to reduce the amount of filament I use by a smidgen.
You can forgo the brim if you have a lot of glue. However, the brims are meant to create a platform that spans both of the earrings, as I found that printing them singularly still caused them to get knocked off the plate. As for breaking off the custom supports, the arc should just rip off easily from the base as the base is very thin. This gives you a little hole to slide it out. The fin is designed thin enough to just pop off.
Overall I am very happy with the outcome and I hope you are too. If you'd like to support me, consider checking out one of my Kindle books on Amazon. I've got FDM and Resin books, but I also have books on random stuff like compasses, better habit building, and DSLR cameras.
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