Rewindable Filament Drybox Consumables Rack

Rewindable Filament Drybox Consumables Rack

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Print Profile(2)

All
P1P
P1S
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1
A1 mini

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 30% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 30% infill
Designer
4.5 h
2 plates
5.0(2)

Split the base, adapt to A1mini printable
Split the base, adapt to A1mini printable
5.7 h
3 plates
5.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
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Description

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Since my design habit is to minimize the use of supports and hardware during printing, most designs use tolerances to directly connect. Due to the printer's tolerance and the relationship between different printers and materials, there are inevitably some cases that are too tight or too loose. Some places may need to be polished or tightened with double-sided tape.

 

Requires 4 686 bearings and 3 106 bearings, a little bit of badminton racket wrap, and a little bit of double-sided tape. For specific installation methods, please check the video on Bilibili. Below is a brief installation guide:

https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1dg4y1Z72X/?spm_id_from=333.999.0.0

  1. First, connect the front and rear axles
    1. Since it is designed to be printed without support, this separated structure was used when making the rotating shaft. Align it with the snap-in and put it in. Rotate it slightly with pliers. It's tight enough, don't use excessive force, otherwise, it will be twisted.
    2. Then snap on this 686 bearing for later use.
  2. Next, we use these 2 106 bearings:
    1. One is snapped here. The tolerance reserved is relatively small, and you can use tweezers or a screwdriver to help.
    2. The other two are the same way, snapped here.
  3. Let's install the gear.
    1. This drive gear has a relatively small tolerance, and it needs to be inserted and then pulled out to test before installation.
    2. Then install it in place like this, leaving the suspended part alone.
    3. The bevel gear also needs to insert and pull out the shaft first. Sometimes, due to the shaking of the printer, the middle part will be a little thicker. Therefore, if necessary, it can be polished slightly. The method is very simple, sandpaper can be used, I usually use pliers to rub it a few times.
    4. Then press in the third 106 bearing, press it to the bottom as much as possible, and then put in this small C-shaped ring, which is used to limit the position.
    5. Finally, connect it with the bearing and turn it to test.
  4. Then we press in the installed rotating shaft. Here is a reference to the design of Bambu AMS. In order to limit the position of the rotating shaft more accurately, the design has been modified here, and a small step has been added. Therefore, when installing, it should be slightly bent outwards.
  5. Then we put the support frame into the opened dry box. And then connect with this shaft sleeve. What are these two small spacers for? Because the side of the dry box is not completely vertical, there is a slight angle, so you can choose to install this spacer, which can make the interface smoother.
  6. If you have high requirements for sealing, you can use glue here or add some TPU gaskets.
  7. Then install the detachable knob and that's it. Last time, a netizen suggested using a handle, a good idea, but I am too lazy to design it, haha, mainly because there is limited space here. This time, the size of the knob has been increased, which feels good to use.

Comment & Rating (44)

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Remarkably convenient
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Awesome!
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Can you send me the link to the 20L rice bin?
(Edited)
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What size airtight container do you use for your 4-spool filament holder?
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This is a submission, thank you for sharing! Hope you can continue to optimize and iterate
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Awesome!
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Hello, what is the size of this airtight container?
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Amazing
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Perfect! The only thing missing is a moisture-absorbing function.
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Hey, are there any mirrored models available???
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Could you please design a version that can be printed on the A1 mini? The A1 mini's maximum print size is 18cm * 18cm. Although it cannot fill the entire bottom of the 5.8L rice bucket, it should be possible to compensate for the size difference by extending the shaft of the handle's rotary knob. Alternatively, the positions of the two axles could be shifted to one side, but this may require adjustments to the size of the gear mechanism.
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Later, I'm busy with the project at hand. But speaking of which, isn't the A1 mini all equipped with an AMS lite?
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Replying to @FireStar :
During usage, I noticed an issue: the passive shaft without a gear and the active shaft with a gear are not symmetrical about the central axis of the drying chamber bottom. Therefore, if the filament spool has a larger diameter, it will interfere with the bucket wall on the passive shaft side, making it unable to contact the passive shaft. In this case, the friction force during the spool rotation will increase. It is recommended to design both shafts symmetrically about the central axis of the drying chamber bottom to accommodate spools of different diameters. My previous suggestion of offsetting both shafts to one side is also not recommended due to this issue. To adapt to the A1 mini print size, the design needs to be modified, and the shaft of the hand-turning knob needs to be extended.
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Replying to @Hs_Yeah :
A hardworking and enthusiastic Bambu user has updated an A1 profile. You can try printing with it!
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What happens when it passively rotates? Is there a clutch? Or does it always rotate with it? I also got one, I'll release it when it's perfected.
(Edited)
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It rotates with it, there is no clutch
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While this design was not implemented, the drive shaft can be pulled out a small distance if needed, separating the two gears, because it's simply a tolerance fit between the drive shaft and bearing. However, it can also rotate along with it, and this small amount of resistance is negligible for the extruder.
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Is a 5.8L rice container suitable? I plan to only use one
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I used a 5.8L rice container
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Is it possible to create a model with a width of 85 that can be printed on an A1 mini? The inner length of the 20L container is only 340
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There is already an A1 remix on the right side, I remember someone remixed the 20L version as well, it should be searchable on MW
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Is it not a little unethical to take open-source solutions without crediting the original author and source?
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Where is the semi-frame in the third picture used?
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