This dice tower include high-detail in a 360-degree miniature with many LEDs for a cyberpunk vibe. No soldering is required and all of the electronic components are available from Maker's Supply. 

Model Features

Details surrounding the model include textures, lights and templates for layering on graffiti in addition to using Make My Sign to customize one of the signs.
I've tried to add as much detail as I could and also stencils are included so that you can paint on graffiti to the walls.
Although not minimal, the tower should be small enough for most tables & works for standard-sized dice. Larger dice may get stuck.

Choosing components

In the Bill of Materials, I’ve included all of the components I used in the photos for this post. However, there’s a lot of flexibility to use fewer components or to even make this a plug-in, decorative model:

• The exterior lights utilize an optional potentiometer in case you feel they’re too bright. In my experience, a potentiometer is not needed for the interior lights.
• The Make My Sign element is backlit by an LED but you may prefer to just have this sign unlit.
• The metal rods are entirely optional but can be helpful for alignment. Otherwise they are just decorative.
• If you choose to forgo either the interior or exterior lights, you will only need one power distribution board and one battery pack.
• The power distribution boards come with USB cables - if you’d like to just use the model decoratively, you can use these cables instead of batteries.
• The power poles are scaled to use the nylon thread available in Makers Supply but other thread could also work.
• The foam tape is entirely optional and just makes it somewhat less noisy to roll dice down the tower.

Post-Processing, Painting & AMS

• The print profile utilizes AMS in a limited capacity but AMS is not required. All parts can be printed in single colors and painted - I utilized painting for the version of the model in these photographs.
• For the Make My Sign portion, you can choose to not orient the sign face-down or use manual filament swaps if you don’t have access to AMS.
• I painted portions of the model using acrylics after printing the core components in a dark gray base.
• The graffiti templates work well with paint pens such as Sharpie Creative markers. I like to overlap them or rub off some of the paint while still wet. Also, it can be fun to use the template as an outline for an overlapping color.

Printed Parts

1. Base
2. Dice Tower Interior
3. Dice Tower Lid
4. Roof
5. Scaffolding
6. Noodle shop building
7. Streetlight
8. Unlit signs
   1. Noodle shop
   2. Noodle shop closed
   3. Side
   4. Back
   5. Front
9. AC units (4)
10. AC covers (4)
11. Balconies (3)
12. Power poles (5)
13. Small window screens (15)
14. Large window screens (6)
15. Front sign
16. Front sign interior
17. Front sign letters
18. Side sign - back
19. Side sign - front
20. Side sign - letters
21. Back Sign base
22. Back sign dice
23. Make My Sign (customizable)
24. COB LED holder

Assembly Instructions

Note that not all parts are shown in all step images - only the relevant parts for the step are visible.

Glue the (2) unlit signs into place on the side of the noodle shop & glue the noodle shop building into place - before the glue sets, insert the plug through the main base and into the noodle shop. This will allow a COB LED to pass through in a later step.   Press the streetlight through the front of the base. This should be a tight fit but glue can be used if needed. Glue the unlit sign to the front of the base.
Glue the (2) unlit signs into place on the side and back of the base.
Glue the (4) AC covers to the AC units and then the units to the side of the base. There are pegs on the base to aid with alignment.
Glue the (3) balconies into place - use the pegs for alignment.
Remove supports & press the Side Sign front into the Side Sign back and then glue the characters to the sign. Try to use minimal glue at the base of the characters so that you don’t mar the surface of the characters. After the side sign is dry, slide it onto the base. Glue shouldn’t be needed.
Slide the window screens into place. There are only two sizes so you can choose which designs to use in each. Use a flashlight to preview the design for each. Be sure to orient the smooth side of the screen towards the outside of the model. Inserting the windows from the back can be easier.   Glue can be used but shouldn’t be needed if the model won’t be moving around too much.
Front sign: Remove the supports from the sign - be sure to remove all of the supports from the interior track so that there’s room for the LEDs. Be cautions when removing supports as these elements can be delicate. Insert the sign into the base. Ensure that the piece is oriented so that the LED pass-through hole is at the top. Glue can be used if needed although you may want to wait until the LED is tested and installed before gluing.
Pass the filament LED through the hole into the exterior of the sign.
Align the end of the LED to the final point and then press it into the channel. These LEDs have a front and back - ensure that the embedded LEDs are pointing towards the interior of the sign.
Continue around the channel pressing the LEDs into place - ensure that they stay oriented with the lights towards the interior.
Glue the sign letters to sign interior, then flip and glue letters to the other side.   Glue the interior to the main sign by aligning it to the two slots on the back.
Back sign: Carefully remove the supports. Before attaching the sign to the base, pass the filament LED through the hole into the exterior of the sign.
Align the end of the LED to the final point and then press it into the channel. These LEDs have a front and back - ensure that the embedded LEDs are pointing towards the interior of the sign.
Press the LEDs around the interior channel of the sign to fill the circle.
Orient the dice piece so that the most prominent face points up. Clip the dice piece behind the sign back using the split area around the peg hole. Press up against the back of the sign base.
Attach the back sign to the back of the base.
Press the poles of the scaffolding into the slots in the base. Use a small amount of glue to attach the scaffolding to the side of the base.
Attach an 100mm SH1.0 wire to an LED array and slide it into the back of the streetlight (from the interior). The LEDs should be facing down towards the bottom of the model. You’ll connect this wire to power in a later step.
Attach an 200mm SH1.0 wire to an LED array and slide it down into the slot behind the Make My Sign panel. The LEDs should be facing towards the outside of the model. You’ll connect this wire to power in a later step.
Attach an 100mm SH1.0 wire to an LED array and slide it into the holder above the bottom battery pack slot. The LEDs should be facing up towards the top of the model. You’ll connect this wire to power in a later step.
Glue the Make My Sign panel into place.
Add batteries to both battery packs and slide them into place. The orientation of each pack should align the power switch to the window in the model. You will need to feed the power cable into the model ahead of the battery pack. For the back pack, the power cord has a hole through which it can be fed.
For the interior lights, attach the wires to the power distribution board as shown. Test the interior lights by turning on the power and then place the power distribution board into the slot to hold it in place. You may need to replace jumpers if lights are flickering - I’ve experienced some that have shorts.
For the exterior lights, attach the wires to the power distribution board as shown.
For the 300mm interior COB LED, loop the LEDs over the bar behind the side sign and then down through the plug into the noodle shop. Test the exterior lights by turning on the power.
Place the potentiometer and power distribution boards into their holding slots.
Optionally, you can add some foam tape to the interior of the dice tower. This can make the rolling of dice somewhat quieter. Place the lid onto the dice tower interior. Glue is optional but should not be needed. Slide the dice tower interior into the base - be sure to orient the tower so that dice will flow out the front of the base. You will need to be careful of the interior wires and can pass them below the interior power distribution board as needed.
Glue the the power poles into place - these should be a snug fit.  Thread thy nylon cord through the power poles. I recommend going back-and-forth several times from the beginning to end. Also, be sure to leave enough slack so that the wires rest naturally. You can tie or glue the ends of the cord.
Place the roof onto the base. Do not glue this piece as you will need to remove it to replace batteries.

Printing tips

• Supports are required for the main base to support the cantilevered portions of the building. I did not use support for the bridged sections at the tops of doorways and windows.
• The main base and air conditioners can be printed in a textured plate but I would recommend smooth plates for the remaining components as the plate side will be visible.
• I have printed this model on a P1S. Although a profile is available for bed slingers such as the A1, I have not printed the models on a bed slinger.
• Filaments used in these photos were Bambu Matte & Basic PLAs as noted below. Translucent/light color (not transparent) PLA should be used for sign letters and window screens. Quixel scans were utilized for the concrete bollards along with Kit Bash textures.

I love creating models to share for free, personal use. 

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