Update Effective 11-19-2024
The main modeled has been replaced with an updated brass catcher that addressed the issues of stovepipes and failures to eject. The main orifice now sits lower than the ejection port and no longer sits on the stock which was causing issues to users with aftermarket stocks like magpul and the volquartsen .
The velcro model has also been replaced, but still operated in the same fashion as before where you place the command strip or velcro wherever fits best on both the model and the stock. There is no guidance of where it should be located except for being located in the center of the ejection port.
Note: If you are having trouble with the tree supports breaking loose from the build plate, you can add a cube primitive at the base of the support to give it some more bite on the plate.
Print Settings: Print with 6-7 walls and 50-60% grid or gyroid infill, this seems to be the best mixture of strength to speed. The standard print takes about 3.5 hours and uses 90 grams, 20 of which are support material.
Happy printing and happy shooting! Pick up your shit and leave the range looking pretty.
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EDIT: Replaced the picatinny version with a cut out on the hooks to account for iron sight users. This allows you to retain vision through the sights without the catcher getting in the way.
EFFECTIVE: 7-17-2024
This is a brass catcher for the Ruger 10/22. There are two versions, one that hooks onto the picatinny rails and the other that attaches with velcro or a command strip. Below are some instructions for attaching both models.
https://imgur.com/a/10-22-brass-catcher-af0wqdr
Picatinny Rail Version:
The Picatinny rail version fits onto a standard rail. Since not all mounting holes are spaced evenly, the catcher has enough play to fit different rail models. Align the catcher over the bolt with a few millimeter margin from the front to ensure that it does not make contact when it chambers the next round. The bolt travel for the 10/22 is 53mm which gives you 10mm margin on both sides. Play around with the spacing and keep it where it feels best.
The hooks are printed in a way to add strength with the layer lines (think diving board vs a vertical strip of legos). That said, they are still fragile, you don’t need to flex them much to get the catcher on and off the rail!
Velcro/ Command Strip Version:
The placement of this version is up to you. Follow the same logic as above and give it some space behind and in front of the charge handle. Ideally centered vertically to allow the shells to eject fully before making contact with the catcher. It might be wise to hold the catcher by hand and shoot a few rounds to see where it fits best. Included is a command strip and a velcro strip. Upon testing, the velcro left a sticky residue that was a bit tough to clean, hence the inclusion of something a bit easier to remove. I prefer the command strip for its hold and tendency to not sag as much.
Both models are awkward to support due to their shape so tree support is the best way to do it. To ensure that the tree supports don't break due to the applied torque as it gets to the top, I used a rectangle block that intersects the support as a stronger base. Mimic the settings and the support block from the pictures and you should be fine. Use a 0.24mm support gap on the top for easy removal. They've been coming out if you cut them into chunks near the top of the branches, maybe a minute of support removal.
Print one for you, print one for your friend, but please don't print these for commercial purposes...
You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.
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