A1 Y-Axis Drag Chain (Cable Chain) - V2

A1 Y-Axis Drag Chain (Cable Chain) - V2

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Print Profile(1)

All
A1
P1S
P1P
X1 Carbon
X1E
X1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
4.4 h
3 plates
4.7(296)

Open in Bambu Studio
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Description

✨ Enjoy my designs? Please boost, like, and follow! Your support makes a big difference!

If you'd like to go further, you can buy me a coffee here: ☕ buymeacoffee.com/arzhanglotfi.

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X-Axis Drag Chain (hotend) - https://makerworld.com/en/models/766893

Y-Axis Drag Chain (heat bed) - https://makerworld.com/en/models/707408

Z-Axis Drag Chain (side) - https://makerworld.com/en/models/707695

 

A1 Y-Axis Heat Bed Drag Chain (Cable Chain) - No Offset & No Sagging

 

I wanted to make a cable chain that is good looking, functional and is easy on the cable.

  • The offset problem is solved by designing an S shaped offsetting base to the heatbed to shift the position of the cable.
  • The sagging  problem is solved by making 10 of the bottom chainlinks only bendable upward and the rest of the links till the top freemoving in both direction. This way the cable is not touching an tapping the table.
  • The heatbed base is fixed in position with the printer's own screw. You just have to screw and unscew it with the small hex key.
  • The bottom base is designed so it fits snuggly to the printer but optionall you can print the screw-on version. For that you have to drill two small holes on the printers back with a Dremmel Tool. Mine works perfectly but do this at your your own risk. 

Important Assembly Steps (also check photos)

  1. Start from the bottom: Add one of the drag chain base options. One for the fixed triangled printer version, this can be just pushed on or screwed on. And 3  version for A1 printers that comes with a removable plastic triangle or bump. Here you should remove the triangle or bump to have space for the base. If you use the screw on version add two pieces of bt3x12 self tapping screws. And put the cable chain fixer inside the housing so that the screws have a solid block to grap into.
  2. Add the bottom part links (the ones that can only move in one direction staired end end long back) alternating as seen on photos.
  3. Then continue with the top part links (the ones that can move more freely round end and short back.)
  4. Before adding the last piece, screw out the one little screw with the little hex key.
  5. Place the base. Push and bend the cable in place.
  6. Add the last link piece.
  7. Screw back the little screw.
  8. Check if everything is ok by pushing the bed back and fort by hand.
  9. Done!

I printed mine with PETG but PLA works fine aswell. Although since the top base is quite close to the heatbed I think PETG is preferable.

 

ENJOY!

 

✨ Enjoy my designs? Please boost, like, and follow! Your support makes a big difference!

If you'd like to go further, you can buy me a coffee here: ☕ buymeacoffee.com/arzhanglotfi.

Thank you!

Boost Me (for free)

It's free fo you, and that's the only way I get reward for my work.

 

Bill of Materials

Maker’s Supply Kits and Parts
Bambu Filaments
A00-D2-1.75-1000-SPLFREE
× 1
G02-D0-1.75-1000-SPLFREE
× 1
List other parts
  • Thin Double Sided Tape x 1

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Comment & Rating (839)

Please fill in your opinion
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Worked great. Used double sided tape to secure the bottom one instead of screws. Seems to work fine.
The designer has replied
3
Reply
cool! you need to check some of the links are not clicked in on the photo.:)
1
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
🤦‍♂️Good eye, fixed it! Thanks!
0
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what is that on your AMS?
1
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perfect snug fit on that weird post that sticks out. I didn't feel like drilling holes to secure it just yet, it seems fine for my case. both pieces together fixed the occasional loosening of the ends from the machine as I hoped. Edit: Unrelated- Yes the nozzle wipe bucket is pretty warped. I printed a new one right after this
(Edited)
The designer has replied
2
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Can you link the nozzle wiper bucket? the one I tried before didnt fit. Thanks!
0
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
the one here is https://makerworld.com/en/models/599636?from=search#profileId-521853 The little bump that goes into the screw hole might need to be shortened a little bit to sit flush.
1
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Replying to @Nutrafin3D :
Thanks! will check this!:)
0
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Boosted
Wish that top piece would be held together but more than just a tiny screw. The top piece connected to the heatbed is also moving away from the heatbed.
The designer has replied
1
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Guys anyone else has a massive gap here?
0
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Hi! At first the cable is little stiff but later it will let it ger closer. There is a two screw version inside the project. that holds it closer and make this issue goes away!:) Thank you for the boost! let me know if i can help you
1
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
Ok yes thanks, i just got the printer 1 day ago I did not realise there are hidden models in using Bambu Studio. The two screw version is much better, 1 screw one is literally hanging off and the cable is rubbing on the bottom of the heatbed. I suggest to make this the default, its clearly visible that on users prints it does not fully align straight and somone made the same comment as me before. Now that I have installed it the rubbing noise is gone too. Great stuff!
1
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
I initially printed the default model from the settings, the size was suitable, however, both ends of the connectors could not be secured, and the build plate connector would shift with the build plate, causing the wires below to rub against the base. So I reprinted the larger, hidden model, and after installation, it perfectly solved all the problems. Excellent! 👍 Thanks for sharing! 👍
The designer has replied
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1
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Thank You! :) Please make sure to click on the BOOST button if you like the model. That's the only way I get points for my work and it's totally free for you.
0
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This is what I was going to suggest the first version is terrible why is this hidden?
1
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I am surprised no one else has these issues, I wasted one hour eventually took it off looked so bad. Then I saw this comment!
1
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Hello, I love your designs I have put everything together, the only thing missing is the back chain and I've seen a lot of comments where others also have this version but no one has answered you, if you read this and respond I would be delighted to give you the details, thank you
The designer has replied
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1
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Hi! thank you so much! yes please I would like to make an end piece for this. So far I made one without the triangle holder so it fits this version so you can download it until. but I would like to make one with a better contact. So can you tell me the size of the bump, the material of it and is it removable? If removable, what is under? can you make photos with measurements? Thanks
1
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It is made of hard rubber It is glued with adhesive
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0
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
the rubber part simply rests on the tape, flat surface
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
pretty
The designer has replied
0
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Hi! you seem to have a layer shift. You should calibrate your printer. Or You might have moved your printer while printing.
0
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
hi! electricity went down so I had to resume
1
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Replying to @Roket_1 :
oh! sorry to hear that!
1
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Boosted
Hello, I am also the new version bumper Awaiting the new version
The designer has replied
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0
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Hi! please can you measure it for me so I can make it? Thank you and thanks for the boost!
0
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
I think it is not a good idea to measure the fuse on the left side, because there may be new versions in the future. I suggest whether it is possible to make a small fixed part with the power cord and switch on the right side, which can be stuck through the power plug. This will have better versatility
0
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Replying to @yanxin36 :
I see! Okay! Can I ask still what material is the bumper? Is it removable? what is under?
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Really good design. The length is exactly as it should be. The two parts that attach to the printer are printed in PETG. The chains itself in PLA. Looks great. My PETG is more than a year old but still came out better then expected with this model. A slight mention of caution with the print bed part. The plastic of the printer is softer than PETG and thus deformered easily. Connected all the links, it moves great with no sagging. All printed with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.24 layer height.
The designer has replied
1
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The part you mentioned shouldt touch that part of the heatbed, so I dont know what might be the problem but I will make it have a bigger space now. What is sure that you shouldnt push it close to the wall. This print and cables in general shouldnt touch the wall. Thank You for printing my model! :) Please help me back with pushing the BOOST button. Thats the only way I get points for my work and its totally free for you.
1
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
It was my fault for not being careful enough at the heatbed. Not a mistake in the model. Thank you for the advice. I will make more space from the wall.
1
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Replying to @jedikaal :
no worries. updated the model tho for more clearance:)
1
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Hello, can you tell me where can i get this part to print? Thank you
The designer has replied
0
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Hi its inside the project as an option you have to turn it on in the app. (i use pc)
0
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Thank you for you answer and help. I am on my pc and i turned every option on but i still dont see it. Can you tell me where can i find it. Thank you
0
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
Thank you for you answer and help. I am on my pc and i turned every option on but i still dont see it. Can you tell me where can i find it. Thank you
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Printed well, I just don't understand how to screw the piece under the plate
The designer has replied
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0
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
how to attach the part under the bed? can’t find the screw
0
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Replying to @arzhanglotfi :
got it on but the design is terrible, it drags below the heat bed making friction
0
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Replying to @James_ :
that shouldnt happen unless you put it up somehow wrong.
0
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