Malkus lead screw covers with scraper ramp by Malkus

Malkus

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(7)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

PETG, Snap attachment to right side and removed hole section, 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

Designer

3.6 h

2 plates

4.3(101)

ABS instead of PETG, symmetrical design

Designer

3.4 h

2 plates

4.4(52)

PLA instead of PETG symmetrical, Not recommended with high chamber temperatures

Designer

3.7 h

2 plates

4.1(50)

[PETG], V1, 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

3.2 h

3 plates

4.9(14)

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Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

797

1769

369

3.3 k

3.5 k

Released

Description

Current update: Beefed up snaps. New print orientation and new support type. Many trials for better supportrealease around snaps.

Previous update: version has reduced length of the left spoiler leg to avoid risk of interference and right leg is slightly shifted to the left

One design now for all versions of printers tested. Small snap hook to be gently flexed during installation.

To avoid damaging your clothes while extracing models or working on your machine I made these covers. Expecially on the X1C that creates some carbon debree sticking on the grease on the lead screws that are impossible to wash out. A spoiler is also integrated to the design at the bottom to ease cleaning out the cabinette.

No modifications needed.

Comment & Rating (369)

@luckyluc.64

Boosted

Print Profile

ABS instead of PETG, symmetrical design

Excellent model, excellent modeler, excellent job getting all the dimensions right. Yes, it is so needed. Almost every time I get my prints out, I get that black grease on me. One thing I like to change is to have the right side snap in place (And not ever unscrew the two screws). It would be great if the 2 screws and the 2 bumps have large openings. Untightning the two screws is not recommendable. See the picture. I did butcher it to make it fit flat. The front screw was not quite in line. Adding a recess or hole for the bump would be an improvement. Other than that, it's a remarkable job. Thanks

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Thanks for rhe excellent feeback! my x1c doesnt have these big screws, onöy tiny omes that fit in rhe holes. what model orinter do you have? i can male a version with bigger holes. please advice diameter. cheers!

@luckyluc.64

Boosted

Replying to @Malkus :

Hey @malkus, up late! The holes are in the right place, but the metal frame pushes it a little. the back nutch should go thru the top. I added a notch, and things got better. See pic. Both washers are under 8mm. The two bump seams to be glue-dropped to prevent any movement of the top plate. My X1-C is less than a month. It may be an update. See the pic. They are about 1~1.5mm above the surface. and to the edge. I would say ~8mm dia. This way it will be perfect like me LOL ;-) Thanks

@luckyluc.64

Boosted

Replying to @Malkus :

Hey Malkus I think I lost my reply... Well, here it is again. The washers are under 8mm. The holes are in the right place, but I noticed the "Black frame " needed an opening on the top (See the picture). For the two bumps, it must be a weld or glue to stabilize the rod and "Z" screws and shaft. Probably an update. My X1-C is less than a month old. Thanks for the good work.

@reizner.a

Bad printable or am i wrong? The second and third layers is at the radius to hard. I dont get it printed well... would change this area a bit.

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Just made a new version to upload with smaller radius. Thanks for feedback

@luckyluc.64

Boosted

Replying to @Malkus :

A trick from the old guy. With ABS, usually, you can have as low as a 30-degree overhang. In my model, if a radius needs to be flat on the bed before I put a radius, I put a slight chamfer at 60 degrees, then add a large radius. See the picture. The radius can be as wide as almost touching the bottom and / or have a smaller chamfer. It also helps with the elephant's foot and scraping off the part.

@Malkus

I updated the profile since the. and now has a smaller radius? are you still having troubles?

@AshOcelot

Print Profile

PETG, Snap attachment to right side and removed hole section, 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

Good fit.

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Thanks!

@PoussinJaune

This color look INCREDIBLE! What filament is this? I WANT IT!! Please give me the name!

@AshOcelot

Replying to @PoussinJaune :

Bambu PETG-CF Indigo Blue

@MateuszD

Not sure if I did something wrong but everything fit in nicely after print but when the bed went all the way down the bottom part was in the way and cause the beds plastic to crack around the cutout for the screw.

The designer has replied

@Malkus

sounds like it wasnt fitted as it shoukd because ive never heard of this before and iver 3k downloads. any pictures of it fitted?

@MateuszD

Replying to @Malkus :

It mounts fine but I think the bit that sticks out is too thick. I can't lower the bed currently as I'm printing but perhaps you can try that yourself?

@Malkus

i see this issue now also. thanks for pointing it out. it has not been noticed. new files will be out today

@hahacky

When I import, why is the orientation such that there is a long overhang requiring supports? Would it be better to place the top surface in this photo on the bed?

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Malkus

The snap realease can get difficult with some filament from the support other wise

@JZDABOSS

Replying to @Malkus :

the tree supports (manual) does not seem like a good idea here, The right piece has overhanging parts that span the entire length of the piece at the top, there is no way to print this correctly, Normal supports should've been seleted that provides support to the ENTIRE top section. The auto supports make much more sense as it supports the entire top section. The model is good, but supports definitely need to be tweaked for successful print.

(Edited)

@Astrusia

Replying to @JZDABOSS :

mine had the same issue, I did not look closely and ended up wasting quite a bit of filament and time

@stingray76

works not perfekt on X1 Carbon. Right corner dont fit

The designer has replied

@Malkus

First I heard of it. perhaps different tolerances with different brand filaments. will give it s bit more play then. thanks for feedback

@stingray76

problem solved. Simply break off the inside of the 2 small bars and it will fit.

@crymsan

Replying to @stingray76 :

Same problem for me. Also having some issues with the right guard not staying put. Any issues on your X1C with that Malkus? I also used ABS, so I'm wondering if the shrinkage was too large for the tolerances.

@DodgeRam

Print Profile

ABS instead of PETG, symmetrical design

glad to add this to my X1C and P1S Thanks

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Nice! Thanks!

@Print4Gods

Print Profile

ABS instead of PETG, symmetrical design

I made it black :)

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Looking good!

@kodikat

printed in black PETG. fit perfect in my X1C and looks like it came from factory like this! thanks for the file

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Cheers! Thanks for sharing

@AU3D

Is there anyone who has managed to fit this onto a P1P model? I was under the impression that the frames were identical, yet I'm struggling to attach the cover on the right side due to a metal component that is obstructing the alignment. The misalignment is approximately 3-5mm on the horizontal axis and roughly 10mm on the vertical axis, which seems to stem from the horizontal discrepancy. I have not tried the left side yet.

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Im getting a P1S this week as well and will give it a try on thay one as well

@TheFabioulous

I've had to cut this part out for it to fit, it's exactly 3mm to remove in my case. Also I had to remove one teeth of the spoiler on the right for it to fit

@user_1142405187

Replying to @Malkus :

希望出一个p1s的