This series of Models are based on Cagriahiskali’s beautiful desiccant boxes, and the many other remixes for various hygrometers by others credited in the remix-based-on section below.
There are two orientations of Round Hygrometers, please choose the Print Profile that matches yours from the Print Profiles list:
For Maker's Supply and Vertically Mounted Hygrometers- use ‘Maker’s Supply Hygrometer' Print Profile
These are all re-designed completely, but keeping the face design.
Redesigned slide rail lids, closure, handles, and orientation.
These slide-on covers positively enclose the desiccant with a nice SNAP that is easy to re-open without damaging the closure.
Specifically redesigned to not explode-open inside AMS
Lid cannot slide off inside AMS, lifting the box by it’s tab closes it even tighter
Works with Silica Gel beads and Activated Alumina beads
Middle larger boxes can be DOUBLED-UP to get even more desiccant in, just print an additional 2 and slide in behind the first set. (I don't recommend doubling up the center position to allow air to reach the hygrometer. Skinny side boxes cannot be doubled up due to space limitation) Use the Double-Up print profile to print just these.
As featured in BV3D: Bryan Vine's video about Desiccant in the AMS:
Versions for each popular hygrometer variety are available:
Came out really slik!! The only small comment I would have is that the boxes are a few mm's too high in my opinion. You have to be careful when closing the lid of the AMS. When the box is in between the lid, the lid won't close 100%. Which will let in extra moisture. Other than that, love the design and it's one of my first prints with my P1S. I might adjust the top part a tiny bit to let it fit perfectly. Thanks for the work.
***UPDATE: I had a closer look at the AMS, and the bottom of the AMS wasn't fully seated! So I took out 2 screws, and seated the bottom properly. Now the boxes fit underneath the lid!! So 10 out of 10 for this print now!! thanks***
hey there, thanks for the boost! rest assured however, the handle does not come into contact nor interfere with the AMS lid whatsoever. the lid has a flange that goes into a groove with a silicon gasket. the handle sits far behind this groove in all positions you can push it to (forward or backward) there is no risk of it propping the lid open.
It is possible closing the lid fully, but I have to push al the printed boxes to the back. Otherwise the lid will not fully close, as seen in the picture I've added. Looks like you have more space between the bottom of the AMS and the underside of the lid?
oh I see, may I ask when you got your AMS? I have two models, one from March 2024, and one from June 2024, there’s subtle differences between those and some older revisions I had accounted for so I wonder it there’s different clearances for the model you have (there’s been about a dozen revisions according to the wiki) I’d love to account for this - thanks so much for bringing this up. the simplest update as you said would be to lower the height of the handle, but I’d love to know when you got yours for reference
much better than many of the other “mesh” types because of the well designed back door (better slide, more robust). it has a tactile “click” once it’s fully in.
I printed mine in ELEGOO ASA Becaude I wanted to be able to throw the entire box in my dehydrating oven at 85c to dry the silica WITHOUT deforming the box, hence ASA.
the only changes I made to the .3mf were to slow the print down to 50mms and add a 5mm brim (because ASA.
x1c: 260c nozzle, 105c bed, k=0.028.
holds 16-45g of silica
Quick question from a complete newcomer to the 3d design and print world. When I download the files and load them into TinkerCad, there are no holes in the box, all pieces are solid. Also looks the same in 3d preview in windows explorer window. Tried to print, and the result was a solid box. Any idea why this is happening? I see that others have had no problem downloading and printing with the latticework. Thanks in advance...
Update: loaded straight into Bambu Studio rather than taking into TinkerCad and had the same result, solid boxes. Very confused....
the project files contain a print profile with change settings like 0 top and bottom layers and changed infill values. if you just import the stl files you wont have those changes and it will actualy print solid objects
Thanks for the quick reply.
I chose X1C and downloaded the .stl files for the version I want. I don't see anything in the download but .stl files. Where do I get the printer profile file?
Okay, I'm learning. I found on some models where it gives the walls and top layers. I don't see it on these models, am I missing it, or can someone advise where to find that info?
Thanks a lot!
All the holders printed nicely except for the hygrometer holder. A lot of spaghettification occurs. Used downloaded profile with PETG filament. Printed twice and got the exact same issues. Looking at the layers in Bambu slicer it looks like the loose strands don't have reliable attachment. Is what the blue color means? How do I fix that? See photos.
hi, so a couple of things - you seem knowledgeable so I don’t want to insult your intelligence in the slightest… but first and foremost - you might want to use the 3MF. this prints with supports and it looks like you’ve disabled them. that’s going to be the easiest way to get the same results as everyone else is, using the profile as-is. as you can see if you scroll down, many others have posted photos of that area looking clean, even someone who printed it is ASA.
if loading the 3MF doesn’t bring up supports then you may have a situation where changing profiles is losing settings, and you’ll want to discard old settings and keep new ones from the 3MF if prompted.
Sounds good. Those were actually questions. I missed that the model needed supports. Originally I was not going to use the hygrometer so I just added this one part to the existing 3mf. The hygrometer still fits. Thank you. p.s. I really like the concept of this design versus the other styles out there.
I noticed about 30% into the print of the 45° Mount Middle Hygrometer Position - Full Set", that two of the 10 pieces failed due to lack of adhesion. (I am just starting printing). I thought if I paused the print and deleted the two failed pieces, I could finish the print, clean the bed and try to print just those two pieces after. I highlighted and deleted the two failed pieces, then hit play again. But, it ignored the deleted pieces and kept trying to print in those two spots, which was making a mess.. In the Prepare and Preview it shows only 8 of the 10 objects in the process pane. Seems like It should have worked. I obviously missed something, if this is or should be possible to do. Any idea what I didn't do? A Pause and Print again didn't work. I was afraid to stop and start it again, until I figured it was a no go and start from scratch. The rest of the pieces were printing fine..
I know the printer has to get to a 'stopping point' between parts and often tries to finish the layer of the object that was just cancelled before it will move on to the next object, if you cancel it while it prints other parts' layers it'll skip it but I don't think it will in the middle of the layer, especially during ironing (which I found out the hard way) this is anecdotal of the few times I've tried to cancel parts, so I'm not sure if I'm actually right about this or not
Thank you. I washed the hot plate (Hot Soapy(Dawn) Water and dried it, careful not to touch it with my bare hands).
I started the smaller print "Double-Up Set - 2 Additional Large Boxes".
It's a Brand New Bambu PS1 Printer, using Bambu PLA Matte. I assume this is an Adhesion problem that caused this warping up at the edges? Maybe time for a Glue Stick? Or, something else? I am printing with the door closed, no changes to the settings after opening the file in the Bambu slicer. Any ideas?
It works if you delete before you start the print job. I'll have to try later on something else. I printed the extra set, then printed the full set. Had a little issue on the extra set, but, right after the full set went down perfect. Maybe the bed is not heating up like it should to begin with. Because, I printed the same extra set right after and it printed fine.. No cleaning between, etc.. Thanks!!
Worked great but be careful using in a drier. I printed in PLA and they warped at PETG drying temps. Great otherwise and just reprinted in stronger materials
oh no! ah I’ll add some disclaimer text about that, sorry that happened! yeah people have mentioned using them in a dryer but printed from sturdier stuff like ASA, PC, PA6, etc. I believe PETG would still soften
No worries! Rookie mistake from my end 😆 Thanks for sharing these designs!
At 52C for my PLA drying they were fine. 60C is where I got warping when drying PETG. Right now I have some printed in PETG that work great. I plan to reprint more in ASA or PC when I get an enclosed printer.
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