Proxxon KT70 PCB CNC (micro) mill

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Proxxon KT70 PCB CNC (micro) mill

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Description

I wanted to build a cheap and accurate CNC mill, to engrave and drill simple PCB boards. The build is using easy to get components (mostly 3D printer parts), and some printed parts. The plan was also not to make any irreversible changes to the original Proxxon XY table - so it is hand and computer operated.

The working area is 135 x 50 x 50 mm (x, y, z).

To print the plastic parts you need about 900g of filament, I used PLA with 3-4 walls and 30% infill.

Parts list

to build this machine, you will need:

  • Proxxon Micro XY Table KT 70,
  • 2040 aluminium extrusions: 2x 300 mm and 2x 250 mm
  • (2x) 12 mm linear rails (lenght: 150 mm) with linear bearings,
  • threaded rod T8 with nut (lenght: 170 mm),
  • M3 screws and nuts (10 mm lenght mostly) + 6x heat inserts + T-nuts (you can print them),
  • (32x) M5x7mm screws + T-nuts and 90° angle brackets (like this - the screws are 10 mm long!),
  • (2x) M5x25 mm screws ,
  • (4x) 3x20 mm wood screws,
  • (2x) 5 mm to 6 mm aluminium coupler for X and Y axis,
  • (2x) T8 screw shaft collar,
  • (2x) 608 ball bearings,
  • (1x) GT2 belt 110-6,
  • GT2 pulley (5 mm for stepper motor and 8 mm for threaded rod),
  • (3x) NEMA 17 motors,
  • Arduino nano with CNC shield, drivers and limit switches (you can get them in a kit),
  • Power supply,
  • 775 motor with ER11 chuck and some kind of speed controller,
  • 60x60 mm cooling fan.

I had most of the listed materials at home, you can take a look at the Assem file, and modify any part to your liking.

It's the first version of the machine, so there will be some updates - if there will be any interest in the build (still working on the electronic parts).

Build tips

Needed tools and material:

Before the build, tap the aluminium extrusions:

Printed plastic parts:

Firstly add the Y axis coupler on the proxxon table. Mount the Y motor holder on aluminium extrusions and screw on the stepper motor and the limit switch with M3 screws. Then slide the proxxon table on the motor shaft, to get it in the right position. Test to see if the limit switch can be activated with the table and adjust the position. To mount the proxxon table on the aluminium extrusions i used printed T-nuts for M3 screws.

 

 

 

 

 

You tighten the coupler on the motor shaft through the little hole on top of the motor mount.

 

 

 

 

 

Build the spindle motor mount - you need 6x M3x20 mm screws and nuts to tighten the linear bearings, 2x M5x25 mm with nuts and 2x 3x20 mm wood screws:

Then mount the short two aluminium extrusions vertically (use T-nuts and the 90° corner brackets), and slide on the Z axis motor mount (of course with the mounted stepper motor and belt). You can then add the spindle mount with all the bearings…

Then add the top part, and don't forget the limit switch for the Z axis! It's a pain in the a** to add it at the end (trust me I know).

The Z limit switch is mounted directly under the Z_axis_top!

For the X axis, firstly mount the coupler and than just build the motor mount and slide it into the T slot of the table. Again make sure that you can activate the limit switch.

The printed parts are designed so that you can hide the side with the cut (aluminium extrusions and linear rails). For a quiet operation use some vibration dampers (cork).

To easy cut the M3 screws use dedicated pliers (LINK).

 

Update 12.7.2024

The printed couplers didn't held up, upgraded to aluminium ones, also taped a M6 thread into the coupler. To easy connect the proxxon table.

You can only tap a thread into the X axis, because of the left and right thread on the table!

Update 16.7.2024

Added new step files, for easier assembly → XXX_V1.1. Almost everything is wired adding some pictures bellow:

 

 

 

 

New spacers, if you use 10mm screws…

 

 

 

 

 

Updated handwheel…

 

 

 

 

 

Because of vibrations, I added cork dampers (like on stepper motors). That is why there are more versions of the Y_axis_motor_1_X.Xmm (depends on the thickness of your cork plate - I used a cork coaster (3.2mm), cut it and punch holes for M3 screws).

You can see the aluminium coupler on the upper picture, the motor mount has some wiggle room and operation is smooth.

Arduino box and crimped connectors… And my dog Faza :) 

Please be careful when connecting the euro connector for the mains voltage, make sure to check proper connections, use grounding and proper wire thickness! 

Update 18.7.2024

Completed the wiring, tested homing cycle - IT'S ALIVE!

More pictures:

DON'T FORGET TO GROUND THE ALUMINIUM PROFILES!!!

Finished project, let's see the capabilities of the little machine. Hope to see some remixes :)

Comment & Rating (6)

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this is a neat project, how well does it work?
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Thank you, well i got it to work but i have problems with the end stops. I actualy made a PCB with filters and optocouplers for canceling out the noise. It can easy drill and engrave PCBs and some soft materials like plastic and wood, i love the ability to manual control the machine for some quick fixes. I also tried to mill aluminum it is posible but it is a very slow proces...
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Replying to @user_406398612 :
I can easily understand how you'd need to go slow, a lot of those spindle motors don't like aluminum.
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I also own a Proxxon KT70, and judging by the image, I believe only the cross-slide portion of this device was used, correct?
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Yes, that is correct
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Could you please provide the Assembly.SLDASM file in a more accessible format? Preferably PDF I am unable to view SolidWorks files
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