Introduction and contextualization

A box for spools, I know there are many out there, but for those who already know me, they know that I like to do things my own way. So, I decided to make a box for the filament spools. 
What is particular about it, you may ask:

1. It must be closed and provide the best possible seal (I think I've managed to do that)
2. Allow its production on the Bambu Lab X, P and A1 printer's (the mini is out), and that why the model is divided in 4 parts.
3. Easy printing with minimal material usage, PETG and TPU, and 3 screws and corresponding nuts to create a good seal, which is necessary for insulation.
4. It should be aesthetically pleasing, visually communicating its function (more on this later).
5. Be aesthetically interesting while fulfilling functional needs (such as sealing and others).
6. Allow for the placement of some desiccant at the base to maintain controlled humidity levels.
   1. Check my Desiccant container for Spools

This version cannot be used to feed the printer with filament (see image bellow, serving instead as a temporary storage container and always with the accessory mentioned in the previous point to keep humidity levels low. It should last for a few weeks... The time it takes for the desiccant to become saturated depends on the humidity in your area. I recommend silica desiccant, which can be reused by heating it in an oven or microwave.

For more permanent storage, you can use vacuum bags.

So, here it is saying hi and taking off his hat ;)

The Closing clips can represent the color and material that inside the box, the text on the clip can be edited on Bambu Studio.

You can choose between the version with or without the logo, chose the 3mf file that suits you best.

For some reason, there has been a movement within the community against displaying the Bambu Lab logo on my work. In my opinion, the logo is an interesting graphic element and much like in some sports, people enjoy showcasing the brand, creating a sense of belonging to a group. While there could be many reasons for opposition, tastes are subjective, making this a trivial matter that I will not discuss more.

Another point to note is that neither Bambu Lab, Prusa, nor any other company pays me to include their logo on these models. This process is an inherent artistic feature. To end this, beauty is always in the eye of the beholder.

And an example of a printed part with Translucent PETG from bambu lab

There is a other version, prime, that was designed with the filament feed in mind, more advanced, with rollers, pneumatic adapter and other features, you can get it here: SpoolBox 4 all Brands with Filament

Printing parameters

I’ve written an article on my blog titled ‘To What Extent and How Can Transparent PETG Parts Be Achieved?’ It would be great if you could follow me there—I use it to share projects like this and occasionally present some of my preliminary work.

Special care has been taken to provide the models with the printing parameters already defined; however, you are free to change whatever you them if necessary. The use of multiple colors should not hinder those who do not have a multi-material printing unit, as there are only 4 color changes throughout the process. That being said, the provided 3mf files are configured for use with the AMS and changing them for printing without the AMS is up to you. 
I would like to emphasize that these models cannot be distributed in any way or form; therefore, any alterations are solely for your own use.
This decision stems from issues I had previously, where my work was copied extensively, leading to accusations that I had copied the models myself (my own models…)

Some may have some special feature that you can configure to your linking's. An examples is the closing clip that you can change the text label and material color to match the spool material.

• Printing material PETG and TPU from Bambu Lab,
  • Other material can use other materials you may prefer, like PLA, but PETG can make translucent parts (not easy, but possible (very slow and hot with a nice quality filament without moister, and don't expect "glass" like opacity. Here you can find an exceptional example of application: How To Print Glass by Rygar1432
  • the file “SpoolBox_translucent.3mf” contains some top lids (with logo and clean) with a configuration that I think will render you the best results without taking you days to print. The one made by Rygar1432 will give you the best result, but will be a very slow print approx. 20mm/s

Parts included that are needed to print

• Base (PETG or PLA);
  • Right
  • Left
• Top (PETG or PLA);
  • Right
  • Left
• Joints (TPU)
  • Volume 1 & Volume 2, They include:
    • Side
      • Top
      • Bottom
    • Top
      • Right
      • Left
    • 4x Foot's
• Hinge and Closing Clip (PETG or PLA or any other material you like)
  • in total there are 2 parts, that print in place 4 bodies.

Assembling

See image on how to assemble (The exploded view may help one this, so check it)

The feet's on the base must be glued if you what to use them (recommended).

If you want to add a humidity sensor, there is a configuration for that on the 3mf file included. I've use this temperature and humidity sensor.

Regarding the tool I use to make this

I’d like to clarify a common question I receive about the tools I use for my projects. This project was modeled using Autodesk’s Fusion CAD software, which I find ideal for creating complex 3D models. 
 The negatives for the parts were also created there, but they were made using a technique that I’ll explain in a few days for those interested, either through a video or a short article. But only after releasing the version for the A1. ;)

Over the years, I have used other CAD applications, but I ultimately chose Fusion 360 due to its flexibility and ease of use. It is also one of the most accessible CAD tools for this type of community, offering free licenses for personal use. Additionally, its mesh modeling tools are some of the bests I’ve worked with.

Other tools are also used to achieve the final result. For example, rendered images are sometimes generated directly in Fusion 360, while others are done using Blender (I dont model in this software, it is not parametric neither it has a timeline. 
It's rare for me to start a project directly in CAD, as it can disrupt my creative flow. For this reason, I prefer to begin with hand sketches, sometimes with great detail, and only afterward do I translate the design into the CAD tool.

I hope this answers one of the frequent questions I receive.
For more information on how I make thing, and about upcoming projects, updates etc, check and subscribe my blog at: https://designrepcom.com/

Change Log

• (17-05-2024) - Initial release
• (30-12-2024) - Added a Custom Label that you can specify, on the slicer, the name of the material. that label can be interchangeable.