LTS Respooler Motorized Filament Winder by LTS Design

Description

This Design is inspired by the awesome V-Spooler and takes the same basic approach to respooling your Filament Spools! My Design is even more compact and incorporates a Steppermotor and a Filament runout sensor for ease of use. In my experience, it works great! The Respooler is optimized for the Bambu Lab reusable Spools and I cant guarantee compatibility with other manufacturers.

The Respooler needs quite a few electronic parts. Visit my Shop (lts-design.com) to buy different kinds of Hardware Kits to make assembly easier! All the non-electronic parts like screws and belts can be ordered directly from Bambu Lab.

If you like this Design, you can support me by buying me a Coffee. :)

The next version of the Control Board will feature optional App connectivity to configure and control the Respooler! Mostly for fun and to learn App Development. :) Here is the link to the TestFlight Beta: testflight.apple.com/join/r8Eu74SP

!! the 6001zz bearings are currently out of stock in the EU store, here an alternative link: Amazon*

Changes for V3:

Maker's Supply now supported!
different pulleys to be compatible with 10 mm wide HDT Belt
Motor Belt tension now more easily adjustable
Way thicker Spool shaft for more strength

Changes for V2:

new Frame and Base geometry for smaller footprint when printing (no issues with purge line)

Changes for V1.5:

new Electronics Case geometry for easier printing/less supports/better cooling

Changes for V1:

Motor mount now adjustable

Needed Hardware and Electronics:

all non-electronic parts can be ordered from Bambu Lab, use the “BUY NOW” button at the bottom of this page.
Wiring Diagram and electronics Hardware PDF under Documentation

How to use it:

Feed the Filament from the top Spool through the PTFE tube
The right LED will light up; without Filament, the Motor does not start
Attach the Filament to the bottom Spool (i recommend this model) and press the Push Button
Once all the Filament has been transferred, the motor will automatically stop and you can manually remove the Spool
If you want to interrupt the winding, just press the Button again

Video of the Respooler in Action: YouTube

Basic assembly and printing notes:

the screws thread right into the plastic (no inserts), don't over-tighten them!
it is best if the black parts are printed with a durable filament, like PETG or ABS (I used PLA-CF)
some parts use supports that need to be removed
The screws are not pictured in the Assembly Guide

Hardware Kits:

Assembly:

*Amazon Affiliate Link: LTS Design may earn a small commission for purchases using this link

Documentation (3)

Assembly Guide (1)

Wiring Diagram LTS Respooler.pdf

Other Files (2)

Bill of Materials LTS Respooler.pdf

Arduino Code LTS Respooler.txt

Comment & Rating (1271)

@MartinKozak

Boosted

So I finally put it together (using your PCB (which is great help btw)), upoaded the sketch and now I'm having this problem: when I press (and hold) the button, motor rotates slighty (30° lets say), than stops for a half a second, then rotates again 30° and so on and so on. It's not stuttering, motor wiring is correct, it's a smooth movement. I wonder if it might be Arduino autoreset feature? I remember I had to break some resistor before on Arduinu Uno board when building something else, but no idea if it's this the same case?

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@lukas.tu

Hi! It's part of the Arduino code. After 1 second, pressing the button stops the motor. Is the button permanently pressed in your tests? It needs to be a self resetting button :)

@MartinKozak

Boosted

Replying to @lukas.tu :

I don't have button soldered yet, just used wire to connect two button pins on the PCB EDIT: I soldered the button. When I press it once, motor will rotate once 30° and than stops. If I press and hold the button, it repeats rotate-hold-rotate-hold.

(Edited)

@lukas.tu

Replying to @MartinKozak :

Oh ok! Then you need to just give a small impulse, don't keep them connected! Or are you doing that?

@DrKenB

Boosted

Since the only thing you have available in stock is the PCB board, I am trying to source all of the various components in order to build this project. You state that "If you order just the PCB, you need all the parts listed under “ELECTRONIC PARTS”, except for the Buck converter and Resistors." Yet when I look at the "Respooler PCB and Electronics", there are 5 other parts that are not listed in the ELECTRONIC PARTS list. Where can I get those? And the filament switch is also not listed in the ELECTRONIC PARTS list - where can we get that component? When will you have the Complete Power Pack available? That would make life soooo much easier!!! :)

The designer has replied

@lukas.tu

hello! the filament switch is listed on the second page of the pdf, what 5 other parts do you mean? I don’t know yet when the Power Pack will be available, I have a lot of other stuff to do at the moment :/

@DrKenB

Boosted

Replying to @lukas.tu :

Hello! The Button Interface & Filament switch"plus wires is what I was questioning (4 components, not 5 as I said). Is the Limit Switch listed on Page 2 the Filament Switch? Is the 12 mm Push Button the Button Interface? I guess what is confusing me is that the Button Interface in your kit is a small board, whereas the 12 mm Push Button is just a button, not mounted to anything. Are the two LED 5 mm you have listed the LEDs that are on either side of your Button Interface?

@DrKenB

Boosted

Replying to @lukas.tu :

I printed all the bit & put the unit together as much as I could (still waiting on some hardware), & the unit looks fantastic! You did a most professional job, so Thank You! for sharing this with us - greatly appreciated!

@Nightdiver

Boosted

I use a remix for the controls, but otherwise the spooler is really great!

@halfmoon

is it possible to share your remix ? thanks

@ozzie781

Is the remix design available?

@SusanH

can you send me your remix? Did you by chance source out all electronic components? Would you have links for those? Thank You.

@kevtos

Boosted

Print Profile

Respooler V3

finished up the build today, works great on my tests but haven’t tried to respool anything yet. no issues with code or fitment of the pieces. only gripe is I wish the pcb came with soldering pads instead of the pin header, as I prefer a solid connection. plus I’m lazy and hate crimping. i printed the black and white parts in black petg, so I slowed it down a lot from the original print profile. i think the slick petg makes for a nice low friction surface.

(Edited)

@lukas.tu

awesome, looks great! the pin headers are for people that don't like to solder haha

@kevtos

Boosted

Replying to @lukas.tu :

Just some thoughts now that i've done some respools successfully. You have to dismount the whole electronics box to get the lid open since the clearance from the lid to the filament guide is maybe 1mm, which makes adjusting motor strength a bit more work intensive. The screws on the filament guide sometimes hit the spool on my home printed versions. I am swapping those out to some pan head screws so there's more clearance. The spooler works though, very nice!

@lukas.tu

Replying to @kevtos :

thanks for the Feedback! the thing with the electronics case is annoying, but i'm not sure how to fix it :/ The screws hitting the Spool is a bigger problem, i just changed the file for the Filament guide (and pins), should be a bit better now! :)

@levins

Boosted

All in all i'm quite happy with it. Some things broke in assembly, but work fine after printing again with higher wall count. In general i think that quite a few of the parts benefit from slower printing and higher wall count. Since i wanted to respool from some larger 2.5kg spools onto 1kg spools, i made a modification on top. Instead of using the two top rollers, i made two offsets that hold two larger rollers. It now supports spools of around 120mm in width, but can still use normal 1kg ones. If anyone else wants to use this too, let me know. I could probably upload the files. Either the tmc2209 v1.3 or the nema17 i used had a different pinout. When plugging everything into the pcb i got from your website, the stepper motor was just jiggling around. I had to swap the two inner pins of the four pins going to the motor. Maybe i'm not the only one with this problem and someone else might find this helpful, idk. The limit switch listed in the bom has a cable with 3 pins. The connector doesn't really fit onto the two specific pins on the pcb, since the stepper motor is in the way of the third pin. Instead of a bambu spool, i used an empty sunlu spool i had laying around. It works fine if using a simple ams lite adapter for sunlu spools i found on makerworld and it works even better in combination with a spool adapter ring. It shouldn't be too hard to adapt this to spools from other brands. Really happy with how it turned out. Thank you for all the hard work you put into it, i appreciate it a lot!

The designer has replied

@lukas.tu

awesome Feedback, thank you!! i will definetly change some of the stuff you suggested! :)

@mramirkhan

Boosted

can you share the mod you made please?

@user_2380880824

Hi, I also use 2,5Kg spools to respool. If possible, I would be thankful to get your adaptions to accommodate these spools. And yes, I got the same with the 1.3 version. This also has 2 additional pins which are just not fitting the LTS pcb

@RevHazlett

Boosted

Print Profile

Respooler V3

V1 model: felt like I was building a retail product, Very well made, I love it! Used my Gratitude PLA-CF. • I'm worried about the spool shaft component. It's thin, but seems ok • TPE feet @ 5% infill work awesome • Draws ~550mA at full speed • My stepper got pretty toasty so I reprinted the lid with some vent slots (just negatives in Studio). Probably won't help, but I feel better about it 😁 • Make sure you snip the end of your filament loose inside the cardboard so it'll actually come free!

@RevHazlett

Boosted

Oh - please use cross-hatch infill - there's no excuse for using Grid anymore! Just as fast, stronger, and no intersecting lines means cleaner prints (smooth top surfaces in only three layers on every piece!). I also kicked on "only one wall" on both top surfaces and first layer which combined with monotonic line surface patterns visually cleaned up a lot for me. The only piece I didn't enable this on was "electronics case" as the slope for the button wouldn't benefit from it. Past there - if you're able I'd strongly recommend using PETG as a support interface for the base component (assuming you're using PLA/PLA-CF). Those large areas came out buttery smooth and the entire support just fell off when I pulled the model from the plate.

@lukas.tu

Great Feedback and awesome color scheme, thank you!

@user_2380880824

Replying to @RevHazlett :

I'm always using Gyroide, that also doesn't intersect and is strong and fast

@user_2770294795

Boosted

In the process of printing. Noticed that the two longest TPU respooler feet are too long for the bottompart to fit in it.

The designer has replied

@lukas.tu

oh, thanks for letting me know! I'll update the files!

@lukas.tu

should be corrected now :)

@user_2770294795

Boosted

Replying to @lukas.tu :

Thank you for the quick reply. Will reprint them later.

@Brekel

Boosted

All built and wired up, respooled my first (part of a) spool, seems to work nicely! One of the better respooler designs out there, I've tried several :) Did have to fiddle a bit with the alignment of the worm gears once I was actually spooling. Got stuck due to a combination of filament tension and slop in the gears but seems fine after adjusting. A photo of the wiring and maybe a few words on the button/LED functionality might help to clarify some things but not really much of an issue to figure out.

@ste_finetti78

Boosted

How did you manage to get the worm gears aligned? I've been trying for hours, as soon as they reach on end, the lower worm will get stuck. I tried even removing the tooth.

@Brekel

Boosted

Replying to @ste_finetti78 :

Mostly luck I think. I loosened the belt tensioner, took the belt of the gears and manually rotated both gears.

@retired_badger

Boosted

I would agree on the wiring. I've built a lot of electronics with Arduino, Raspberry Pi, and other CNC equipment, where wiring is critical. The PCB is labeled, but no indication of pin 1, etc. So I was a tiny bit frustrated when there were no specific notes on the wiring. I guessed at how they should be wired, and got it right the first time. If there is any rhyme to how they should be wired, that would be helpful. Even if there is no specific wiring pattern, other than plugging them in to the respective locations, that would have been a nice note to follow in the instructions. Otherwise. it is a great solution.

@MartinKozak

Boosted

Print Profile

Respooler V3

Waiting for electronics, but so far very good. Looking forward to it.

@schutte.gannon

any luck getting the code to load?

@MartinKozak

Boosted

Replying to @schutte.gannon :

Still waiting for package from AliExpress

@schutte.gannon

Replying to @MartinKozak :

no, still says the same thing even after trying the new code that was uploaded. I am probably doing something wrong. No matter how I do it, still has the same error when I check it or try to upload it to the Nano.

@spikeon

Boosted

i have had to reprint this part dozens of times now. i just re-printed the entire thing again thinking the v3 would fix this, but it did not. PLEASE give us an option that lets us run something stronger than platic down the core of this. at the very least, could you consider re-designing this part so it’s layer lines can run down the shaft? because it’s breaking on the layer lines.

The designer has replied

@spikeon

Boosted

note: this part has broken when printed sideways, when printed out of PLA, when printed out of PET-G, when printed out of ABS, when printed out of PC-ABS, and when printed out of PA. At this point a M6 bolt running down the core with a nut on the other end is sounding like a pretty good idea.

@lukas.tu

Hmm I thought the much thicker shaft would solve this! Before I redesign anything I think you should try reprinting the part with a different filament and more infill/walls if you haven't already. Personally never had a single issue with PLA-CF. Or just put it at an angle (45°) in the slicer and use supports.

@spikeon

Boosted

Replying to @lukas.tu :

I have done the v1 at 100% infill and it has still broken. The one I just put on it is 100% infill PETG-HF, and if that one breaks I have a 100% PCTG, which I remembered I had in the closet, which should hold, considering I've made working hammers out of it.

License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.

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Arduino Shield	Arduino Shield, Interface and Filament switch	Control Board, Interface and Filament switch	PowerPack (all electronics)

Start the Assembly with the Motor Base.
Slide in the NEMA 17 stepper motor and secure it using 3 M3 x 6 srews. Insert 4 M3 nuts into the hexagonal holes and push them down.
If you bought it, you can now Install the Arduino Shield PCB using 3 M3 x 6 screws. If you do not own the PCB, skip this step. You can find a wiring Diagram PDF in the Documentation.
Install the Arduino Nano and the stepper driver onto the PCB and connect the Steppermotor. Make sure the driver is installed in the correct orientation as seen on the Product Page. The Power regulator screw should face roughly the same direction as in the picture. If the Motor is too weak, please adjust the screw! If the Motor is jittering and not spinning correctly, please try swapping out the two inner wires.
Take the Interface and install The Button and the LEDs. The LEDs will need a little glue to stay in place. Solder wires to the Button and LEDs and connect the other ends to a female dupont connector. The correct order is written on the PCB. Please use flexible/small gauge wire, space inside of the case is very limited! If you purchased the "PCB and Electronics” Kit, please print the part Interface for PCB and press the Interface PCB into place.
Set the Electronics case onto the Base plate and secure it from below with 4 M3 x 6 screws. Connect the Interface to the connectors on the PCB and push it into place. If you are using an arduino with mini USB, you can find a print profile for an alternative Case! If you bought the Control Board I'd recommend printing the case without a USB port.
Connect the Filament Sensor to the PCB. The switch needs to be in a “normally open” configuration. You only need two of the tree wires. Usually, you can remove the red wire. With all the electronics in place, close the Electronics case using 4 M3 x 6 screws. The wire for the Fiament Sensor is routed through the little slot in the lid. You can now connect the Arduino to your PC and upload the Code found under Documentation (.txt file).
The the Motor Pulley and slide a M3 nut into the little slot next to the hole. Slide the Pulley onto the Motor shaft and scure it using a M3 x 6 screw.
Attach the pulley to the Motor and screw the Power Pack down to the Base using 4 M3 x 10 screws (from below).
Take the Spool center and insert the Spool shaft into it. Secure it using a M3 x 10 screw. The hole is not pictured here, it's located on the left.
Remove all the Supports from the Frame R and press 4 bearings into their position. Two of them (608zz) are installed in the front and the other two (6001zz) on each side of the spool shaft.
Push the Spool shaft through the two central bearings as seen on the picture. Slide the Spool shaft washer onto the shaft. (Seen on the picture as the small white ring around the center shaft) You can also screw on the black Spool nut now.
Attach the small Gear and secure it with a M3 x 10 screw.
Push in the Gear shaft and secure it using 2 M3 x 10 screws and 2 M3 nuts (on the other side).
Attach the Tension 1 holder as shown in the Picture and secure it loosely with 2 M3 x 10 screws. Don't forget to add the washers (pictured in red) and the M3 nuts on the other side. The black piece should be able to move side to side.
Assemble both of the two Tension Pulleys by taking the parts Tension Pully top and Tension Pully bottom and sticking them together. Insert a small MR85zz bearing on each end.
Attach the Tension Pulley with an M3 x 6 screw (screw not pictured).
Repeat the same steps for the second Tensioner.
Take the Filament guide and insert two PTFE tubes as seen in the picture. (this might take a bit of force)
Insert the two worm Gears as pictured.
Slide in the two Filament guide pins. They are red in this picture, you might need to spin the worm Gears a little to wiggle them into place.
Close the holes using the Filament guide lids and secure them using a M3 x 6 screw each.
Slide the two shafts of the worm Gears through the corresponding bearings on the right Frame. Attach the two Filament Guide Pulleys and secure them with one M3 x 6 screw each.
Press the 8 bearings (608zz) into the ends off all four Rollers.
You can now slide the Rollers into position. The longer ones are on top.
Add the left Frame L. The fit is pretty loose at this point.
Attach all three Braces between the two frame sides using 8 M3 x 10 screws.
Add the drive Belt to the largest Pulley. Press the remaining 608zz bearing into the big Gear. Slide the gear, together with the second Belt, into position. Be careful to not break the shafts. Secure the Gear with a M3 x 6 screw and the Gear washer (red). !! make sure the two worm gears are in sync, meaning they're both at the same angle/position !! If needed, you can now adjust the belt tension.
You can now lower the Frame onto the Base and secure it from below with 8 M3 x 16 screws. Make sure the surface where the Base connects to the Frame is reasonably smooth. While doing so, connect the Drive Belt to the Motor Pulley.
Connect the Frame to the Motor Base with (2) M3 x 10 screws! (one on each side) This step is important because otherwise the belt might start skipping, even at low resistance!
Insert the 4mm steel ball into the hole of the Filament guide.
Remove the metal lever from the Filament switch if you bought one that has it attached and slide it into position as seen on the picture. Secure it with 2 M3 x 6 screws.
If you want, you can now glue the TPU feet into position.
And with that, your Respooler is complete! :)

LTS Respooler Motorized Filament Winder

LTS Respooler Motorized Filament Winder

Print Profile(9)

Description

Documentation (3)

Bill of Materials

Comment & Rating (1271)

License

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