Storage Box with origami folding lids.

Storage Box with origami folding lids.

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Print Profile(5)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1
A1 mini

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
Designer
6.1 h
1 plate
4.6(140)

Adjusting parameters for quick dual color production
Adjusting parameters for quick dual color production
5.6 h
2 plates
4.2(13)

85% scale to fit A1 mini. 2 plates to print multicolor.
85% scale to fit A1 mini. 2 plates to print multicolor.
4.7 h
2 plates
4.5(28)

Improved And Optimized. 0.16mm layer, 3 walls, 40% infill
Improved And Optimized. 0.16mm layer, 3 walls, 40% infill
22.6 h
4 plates
4.5(6)
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Open in Bambu Studio
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Description

Update 23-09-2024:

I've made a version 2 of the box. It prints faster, is stonger, no supports with printing, PiP lids and my opinion: it's even more beautifull…

You can find V2 HERE

 

Operation of the lids.

Below is an impression of how the lids work.

 

 

Printing

The lid parts.

 

The lids consist of three separate parts that have to be assembled afterwards.
The two front parts (part 3L and 3R) are NOT the same! This is because the holes are slotted to achieve the mechanical locking of the lids.
Part 3L is marked "L" on the side.
Part 1 & 2 must both be printed 2x.

Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and support everywhere.

 

 

After printing, all support residues must be removed. Do this thoroughly. There is often some extra residue on the axles due to the use of support. If necessary, cut this off so that the shaft becomes as round as possible. Make sure that the ends of the axle are slightly chamfered so that they can be mounted easily.

For Part 1: the part with the axle. The axle can break of in use with either poor layer bonding or too much friction in the hinges. Print with 100% infill to enhance strength or use the extra part I added for use with bolt M3 (See bottom of page!)

 

The Knob, Lock and Axle Lock

 

You need 1x the Knob & Lock and 2x the Axle Lock

For the different parts and the correct orientation on the bed, see the image below.

Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and no support.

 

 

The Box

 

For orientation on the bed, see the image below.

Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and no support.

 

 

Assembly

 

The lids

 

Slide the different parts of the lid together. Pay close attention to the orientation! This is indicated in the image below. Notice that the shafts are pointing upwards!
Once pushed together, the recess in the shaft falls over the cam in the opposite part, securing the two parts against sliding apart.

 

Mounting the Knob and Lock

 

See image below. Notice that the axles are pointing downwards.

Push the knob through both holes in the lids. Then press the Lock from below over both axes of the Knob.
To obtain a firm anchoring, you can first put a drop of glue in both holes of the Lock and then press firmly.

 

 

Mounting the Lids on the Box

 

Place both axes of the lids in the holes of the Box.
Rotate both lids to create an open Box.
Now place both Axle Locks in the holes in both corners of the Box. The round part of the Axle Lock should be facing upwards.
You can use a little glue to keep them in place. Be careful not to glue the axles!

 

 

Operation of the mechanical lock.

 

The lock works by interlocking 2 small printed tabs.
Due to the rest position of the Knob, which is then vertical, they remain hooked together. By tilting the Knob backwards (which is possible through both slotted holes in the lids) they can unlock and you can open the lids.
When closing the lids, you must ensure that the Knob is well pressed and is vertical. To be sure, you can additional tilt the knob towards you. (see video below)

 

 

Box size and scaling

 

The size of the Box 200x100x50 (knob not included) was created after a number of test prints for the hinges. I managed to stay within that 200mm, so it can be printed by almost all printers.

But nevertheless the Box can be scaled. For FDM printing I would advise not to go below 80%). This already gives a very large saving on material and printing time, while the hinges still remain strong enough. It may be that the hinges are less flexible or operate less smooth due to the layer thickness of 0.2mm. By printing with a smaller layer thickness and/or nozzle, can you probably improve this.

 

 

Breaking Axle of part 1 from the lids:

For this model good layer bonding is essential for the axles. In the past I made a version for use with a M3 bolt to make it stronger (see attached screenshot). Use 2 bolts M3x16. I have added that extra STL file. For the latching mechanism: ensure all, but realy all remnants of supports are removed. Mostly there are a few hard to remove remnants. Use a bore for the holes and a knife for the axles to make them smooth. Use correct temperatures and other settings for the used filament for bonding.

Bill of Materials

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Comment & Rating (303)

(0/5000)

Hello WimV, I made a remix of your design. What I did was change the height to 100mm. So I can place coasters in it. I got the coasters from cv6Channel (https://makerworld.com/en/models/16186#profileId-15175). And as an extra I also added a D&D logo on it. For my Dungeon Master Friend. It's going to be a surprise for him.
The designer has replied
1
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👍 I like your take on it! Thanks for posting. Curious how they will react on your "conversation piece" 😄
1
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Is there any tutorial to put "D&D" on the top?
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Replying to @kikepech27 :
If you watch this YouTube (https://youtu.be/_zEYix1Ydlk?si=7c9703uDcoIy2AXE ) video, you will see how I got the D&D text on it.
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
1
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How did you get the top to have a carbon fiber design?
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Replying to @MKO_D :
I used a textured plate.
0
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That’s so cool! Where’d you get it?
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Boosted
Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
works very well, if you want all all the lid pieces to have the same orientation assembled then you need to flip the middle piece.
3
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Awesome box, flipped the large section over for a consistent top finish.
3
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
Wow!
2
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
Cool Design! It worked great!
1
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
Original box but it seems a little fragile the handle did not hold
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0
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I made a V2 box. It uses hardware (screws) to ensure strength where printing is fragile. It also has other enhancements. You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/658960
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Beautifully designed, prints came out perfect! I’d suggest making sure the hindges on the lid operate as smoothly as possible, this would reduce the stress on the shafts. One of mine broke when I opened the lid for the first time. For the same reason, I would not recommend gluing down the axle locks, just so you could replace the pieces when needed.
1
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Boosted
Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
The two large pieces of the lid should be flipped upside down before slicing, otherwise they will have a different texture from the other pieces, as they are meant to be assembled upside down. Great result though. 👍🏻
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Truly very beautiful.. 👍🏻
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