Mana spreading Lich-skull

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Mana spreading Lich-skull

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P1P
P1S
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 30% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 30% infill
Designer
10.1 h
3 plates
5.0(1)

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Description

Helloween is just around the corner, so it's time to wake the dead again. This skull head not only has glowing eyes, but also sprays fine water mist out from his eyes. This effect looks really very cool, but is unfortunately poorly captured on the videos.

 

The printing is very simple. The skull is designed and aligned in such a way that it only requires a minimum of support structure.
The eyes should be printed with transparent material.

 

All you need for the electronics are 2 LEDs with resistors and a mini fogger. You don't have to screw anything. In the picture, you can see that its not that much electronics, I will add more features and better instructions very soon.

 

Blue 5mm LEDs: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeLurer

Mini fogger: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkii6YL.

 

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I saw this and just thought it was too cool to pass up. Some White Marble PLA, a couple of blue LEDs, a couple of resistors, an Arduino nano and a cheap 5v usb nano humidifier board. Solder a few wires, add some water and power and reap the mana! https://photos.app.goo.gl/5dzB9YqiEefAABSq6 Print Settings Printer: Babmbu Labs X1 Carbon Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: .28 Infill: 5% Filament brand: Overrture Filament color: White Marble Filament material: PLA I used the white marble since it was what I had readily avaiable at the moment. Stocks are low right now in the workshop. Been a printing fool all summber long. ;-) This is the Arduino code for the Nano board controlling the LEDs and providing power for the humidifier board as well. int ledPin1 = 9; // First PWM-capable pin for the first LED int ledPin2 = 10; // Second PWM-capable pin for the second LED unsigned long previousMillis = 0; const long interval = 10; // Interval for updates void setup() { pinMode(ledPin1, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin2, OUTPUT); } void loop() { unsigned long currentMillis = millis(); if (currentMillis - previousMillis >= interval) { previousMillis = currentMillis; // Calculate the brightness for the first LED float brightness1 = (sin(currentMillis * 0.0006 * PI) + 1.0) / 2.0; brightness1 = brightness1 * 0.4 + 0.2; int analogValue1 = int(brightness1 * 255); analogWrite(ledPin1, analogValue1); // Calculate the brightness for the second LED // If you want the second LED to fade in sync with the first, use the same calculation // If you want it to be offset, you can add a phase shift to the sine function float brightness2 = (sin((currentMillis * 0.0006 * PI) + PI) + 1.0) / 2.0; // Adding PI for 180 degrees phase shift brightness2 = brightness2 * 0.4 + 0.2; int analogValue2 = int(brightness2 * 255); analogWrite(ledPin2, analogValue2); } } Same Humidifier board as the creator was used, while I was on ALI I picked up a few more inexpensive Arduino Nanos. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805515889671.html One thing I just thought to add. If you use the same kit the creator linked to, don't use the included black collar. the heater disc fits in the CZFA_Lich-Skull-piezo-tank-fix.stl part. Make sure the soldered wires are UP, towards the smaller hole, the part then fits over the top of the CZFA_Lich-Skull-Tank_small.stl. The included white wick should be cut to about half (give ot take) to accomodate. The whole tank assembly is then inserted just behind the jawline in the rectangular pocket. The wires then feed back into the skull where they connect to the board. If you wish to save USB cable passing through and want to use an Arduino like I did, you can solder jumper wires to the humidier board. Using jumper wires allows you to quick connect/disconnect the humidifier ans still allow the eyes to glow when you run "dry".
(Edited)
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Thank you very much for your make! Very well done :)
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 30% infill
Thank for the electronic add device
(Edited)
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BOOOOOOST
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For your information this is called a demilich, as seen in the official DnD Monster manual.
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