Large (100%) - Dimensionally Accurate w/brim on pins - 0.2mm layer, 12% infill
Designer
2.9 h
1 plate
4.6(323)
Small (55%) - A1 Mini - Dimensionally Accurate w/brim on pins - 0.2mm layer,12% infill
Designer
1.1 h
1 plate
4.4(317)
Small (55%) - Dimensionally Accurate w/brim on pins - - 0.2mm layer,12% infill
Designer
1.1 h
1 plate
4.3(237)
Medium (80%) - A1 Mini w/brim on pins 0.2mm layer,12% infill
Designer
2.1 h
1 plate
4.5(27)
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Description
An Icosahedron made of bevel gears.
Assembly
Text Assembly Instructions:
Some folks have had trouble following the video above (sry, it's not as clear as I'd hoped), so here are some alternate instructions. The image shows the process, working from top left to bottom right.
Image 1
The first image above shows two large gears attached to the core, with one small gear in between them.
Point the larger gears' pointed teeth straight up (i just took the pin out on the opposite side, so it could sit flat for the pic). These points are indicated in red in the image.
Looking at the small gear, locate the three sides of the small triangle on the back and make sure that the insets (indicated with red “V”s in the image) are angled to accept the larger gears' pointed teeth.
You should then be able to add the next large gear with the point up, like you see in the first image.
Image 2
The second image shows the model flipped over 180 degrees, sitting on flat of the small gear that was just on top
Stick on the last large gear to the pin pointed up (it can be in any orientation at first)
Image 3
Find an empty gear slot and point it upwards.
Orient the large gears so the points are now pointing up around the empty small gear slot, similar to their orientation in the first image.
Pop in the small gear, with those triangle corner inset areas accepting the large gears' points
Image 4
repeat the previous step until all of the empty small-gear slots are file
That should leave you with everything in the correct arrangement! The pins will fully seat after the initial turns, so you might hear them pop into place. If you still encounter issues, I'm active in the comments and would be happy to help troubleshoot.
Background: I love this gear cube and it made me want to explore how to apply that approach to other platonic solids. For some stupid reason I picked the Icosahedron and the additional geometric complexity kicked my butt days. It would have probably been easier if I could math good, but that's not the case…
I still prefer how much the gear cube deforms so significantly in it's intermediate states, but the icosahedron is still a satisfying fidget. I might explore some alternative ways to break up the shape to introduce some more deformation, while retaining the smooth gearing.
Printing notes:
If the gears begin to get loose, replacing the pins with newly printed ones will likely tighten it right up.
To that end, printing the pins in a more friction resistant material and adding a bit of grease/lubrication can extend their life
Print profile updates (for the ones I've uploaded): 10/8/23:
Print order changed to outer/inner/infill for better dimensional accuracy
Brim added to pins for improved bed adhesion for most plate types
New pins only profile, in case you still have bed adhesion issues or need a fresh set, if the originals wear out
10/22/23:
I updated the stand-alone STL and 3mf files to include the brim and orientation tweaks from the previous update
Large (100%) - Dimensionally Accurate w/brim on pins - 0.2mm layer, 12% infill
First bad print I've had from Maker World. It does not turn smoothly, I've printed other similar design and it was great. This one is 0 pleasant to play with. Also instructions are a mess x.x
> First bad print I've had from Maker World
That doesnt really seem fair.
It looks like it printed fine. If it's still a bit stiff, it might just still need to break in a bit. It has intentionally tight tolerances, so that it remains solid after breaking in. See image for smoothest turning.
> Also instructions are a mess x.x
Can you help me understand what wasn't clear in the instructions? I have written, picture and video instructions, so folks can use the one that works best for them.
I've been trying to break it in, still not turning smoothly. On the instructions: The pics are all together and then below the instrucions for each pic, instead of pic-instruction, pic-instruction. And the instructions itself are bad. Of course by watching the images and reading the instructions you eventually figure it out, it's only 8 parts basically but I don't think you manage to communicate properly how to do it.
glad you like it! when you say it's loose fitting, are they falling out or do the gears move around to much?
I just adjusted the length of the pins the other day after feedback they were too tight, so it's possible I over-compensated.
hmm, they should stay in there pretty securely. you might just verify the gear alignment is correct. having one or more out-of-position from the others can cause the teeth to push gears out.
Medium (80%) - Dimensionally Accurate w/brim on pins - 0.2mm layer,12% infill
What a beauty! Printed without problems, guess it could have printed without brim also, it was a bit fiddly to remove. Assembling was easy too, I stuck the pins into the gears and then pressed them onto the middle part with a little turn to keep the correct alignment.
Now I just need to find a good way to hold it, the gears rotate easily, but I am pinching my fingertips a lot - guess I'm holding it wrong. 🤣
Thanks for creating this impressive model. Color is inspired by @epryde.
Small (55%) - A1 Mini - Dimensionally Accurate w/brim on pins - 0.2mm layer,12% infill
Great, fun, and easy to print! Three things I love to see, when looking for something new to print.
I went for the base "Small 55%" profile, as a test print.
Then, I went and modified it a bit, for my own enjoyment. (GO VOLS!)
Took very little filament, and is a very quick print!
Large (100%) - Dimensionally Accurate w/brim on pins - 0.2mm layer, 12% infill
Printed the large baseball size one in FlashForge Burnt Titanium. Even after trying to de-burr the pins the pieces are very hard/stiff to move. I'm not sure what else to do except maybe reprint the pins with no brim.
Hi there! the print looks great and you seem to have all of the gears in the right orientation, so it makes me think that you just might still be in the break-in period. The tolerances are intentionally tight, so that once things inevitably loosen up, it's more or less smooth-turning.
If you're wanting to make it smoother in the short term, you could try printing the pins slightly elongated, maybe 101-105% in one dimension.
This would make the gap between the pin "shoulders" wider, so it wont pinch the gear to the core quite as strongly (since they're longer, you might have to trim the points of the pins if they bottom out).
This comes with the understanding that it might be a bit looser once the break-in period for these longer pins is finished.
Hope that helps!
Thank you for letting me know I just needed to work it in more. It's getting better now that I know I need to work it.
You are awesome for responding not only so quickly but also with a suggestion.
I had a heck of a time getting the pins to print. I printed them separately a couple times using a different plate and slowed the speed right down with the same result. I was able to get enough printed to assemble. I did struggle with finding the triangles, which is a me problem, lol. Overall it was fun and my granddaughter is enjoying it.
shoot, sorry to hear you had so much trouble with them.
another poster suggested adding a brim to the pins to increase the chance that they print successfully. it's a great suggestion that I wish I had baked into the original files.
glad your granddaughter is enjoying it!
I just realized you can update the original print profiles, without deleting the existing ones, so I've now updated my profiles to include a brim around just the pins!
Comment & Rating (1251)