Scifi Crate


Print Profile(1)

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Designer
P1S, P1P, X1, X1 Carbon, X1E, A135.8 h
4.9

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Model

[Intro]

I would like to introduce to you my fancy Scifi Box! Or crate? Treasure chest? Do I need to model some gold coins for you to fill this thing up with? Hehe.

 

I wanted to produce a crate of sorts that'd be larger than the print volume, but assembled in a way that it didn't feel like it was just a model chopped up to fit into a printer's build volume. This is the results of those efforts. Part of my goal with this too was to make it easy to print, have cool styling, and have some sort of latch/locking mechanism (although it is primitive, it is still cool). For bonus points, I made it stackable!

 

[What you'll need]

 

Tools:

Hex Driver #3 & #2.5

Drill bits for clearing out holes

File for cleaning up edges where berm is used, or whatever tool you like for that job.

 

Hardware:

16 M4 Nuts (Used for connecting the End Caps, Ends, And Mid section together.
8 M4x25 (Used to connect the Ends to the Mid section)
2 M4x30 (Used for the hinge)
2 M3x5 (Used on the Lock. You can Use M3x6 screws, but don't over tighten them, as it'll push through and show on the front)
14 M4x10 (6 for the Lock, and 8 are used to connect the End Caps to the Ends)

 

Filament I used: (For reference! Use the colors you see fit!)

Mid - Bambu PLA Iridium Gold Metallic

Ends - Bambu PLA Matte Charcoal

Hardware - Bambu PLA Basic Bronze 
 

[Getting ready to print]

You're going to need about 2kg of filament for this case. It'll be about 1kg for the ends, and a little less for the mid/lid section. I modeled everything to be relatively easy to print, but they're still big full plate models, so make sure you've got things like warping under control (On the P1/X1 for example, turning off the aux fan!), that your bed is super clean, and yeah. These are big prints, so let's check ourselves before we wreck ourselves, because a failed print here can be costly.

 

There is a little post processing that should be done with the models once they're off the build plate. Holes will need to be cleared for where the screws go, as I modeled a flat plane in place to help keep them clean. Additionally, on the lid, you'll want to make sure a screw can insert into the hole freely, and use a drill to clear it out if need be.

 

[Assembly]

Let's get to it, shall we? We'll start with the lid. Make sure a m4 sized screw will fit freely into the hole. We don't want it super loose, but we shouldn't have to screw it in. 

Next, we'll assemble the lock mechanism. Two M3x5mm screws are used as stops for turning the lock. You can use 6mm length screws, but be careful not to put them in too far, as it'll push out and blemish the front surface of the lid. For everything else, use M4x10mm screws.

Now it's time for the body.

 

1. Clear out the holes using a drill, so the screw can pass freely through.  (Planes were modeled in to help support the screw holes during printing)

2. Inset 8 M4 nuts on either side of the mid section into the slots. 

 

(Keep in mind these drawings show the assembly of one side, but both sides should be done at the same time)

3. Make sure you clear out the holes with a drill bit, like we did in Step 1 for the main body.

4. Now, we'll use M4x25mm screws to attach the ends to the main body. Do this for both sides.

5. For the hinge, we'll use a M4x30mm screw, or longer. These are just pushed in, and to hold them in completely, we'll insert a plug/dowl to help keep them in place. Before you put the screw/dowl in for the lid, position the lid in place (This step is not pictured!). Make sure you're happy with the fit of everything before you secure the lid, as once you get the screws and plugs/dowls in, it'll be difficult to remove them.

6. The lid should be installed at this point, with both ends installed. From here we'll attach the end caps. Firstly we'll insert 4 M4 nuts on each end.

7. We'll use 4 M4x10mm screws on each side, screwed into the holes inset into the bigger holes! Once we have all of those in, we'll cover them up with the end plugs. The slot in the plugs is sized to work best with a coin. 

That's it! Enjoy!


License

This work is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.

Comment & Rating (31)

0/5000

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill

Many thanks for this ingenious model. I printed it in PLA and in the Makita style. :-) I am currently printing another crate in PETG. I will upload the pictures of the PETG crate later. Note to the designer: Instead of the key, a rotary knob would be very nice. :-) Thank you so much.

The designer has replied
2
Reply

I was thinking some key variations. When I can get to it, I'll do a knob version too! I think you're right, it'd be nice. (Edited)

2
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Model Comment

After a week of endless 3d printing, 2 more crates are now finished. The upper two are made of PETG and the lower one of PLA. I hope there will be a few more addons and remixes of this fantastic crate. :-)

The designer has replied
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Model Uploader

Impressive!

1
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Model Comment

The Crate is HUGE😮, took over 30 Hours to Print in Pla Bronze and Matte Charcoal. it was Hard to find fitting screws , because the Head of my screws were a little to big.

1
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I ended up putting the threaded end of the screw into my drill, and filing down the heads so they would fit. Nice color choices!

0
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0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill

awsome design and print. very well documented.

1
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Model Comment

Thanks for making this! It’s wonderful!

1
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0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill

This box is awesome! Color choice wasn't my preference but I had the material. I think it can definitely be improved upon so less hardware is necessary but I think it's still amazing. I already suggested some scaled, larger and smaller ones that still stack.

1
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Model Comment

This looks soooo dope, its quite asthetically please in those colors I can't wait until someone puts an ITX pc in it. =D

The designer has replied
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Model Uploader

I've been thinking about ITX case designs since this comment! Ahhh. I need more hours in the day for designing, haha.

3
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@Josh-3D I have one of my old itx boards on hand, and awaiting some filament and hardware needed to assemble it to be delivered. I'll let you know how that goes fitment wise.

0
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0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill

Such a beautiful model. But, please help a brother out with finding the designated hardware you recommend. Like the M4x30 etc etc. I can't find anything like that at any of my hardware stores.

The designer has replied
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Hey! I usually buy packs like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TYR314X <-- (if the link can't be viewed, it's a 720 pc m4 hex socket head cap set with sizes from m4x6 to m4x50.) I get my screws off of amazon or ebay! I hope this helps. I'm not sure of local places even to me that'd sell all those screws, haha, so I have to get them online.

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@Josh-3D Thank you!!

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Model Comment

Currently printing this and I am really happy with this design. Can I suggest a deep one, like twice the height? possibly half size ones so you could have smaller containers, and they can all stack still?

The designer has replied
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Model Uploader

I was thinking about a few options on that front. I traditionally like to have A1 mini versions of things, so felt like I might be leaving something out with only having the one version as it is now. I had thought a bit too about a center bracket so you could essentially extend the case by two.

1
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@Josh-3D Very good idea. [Thumbs up]

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Model Comment

Working with a Bambu X1C and for some reason I get failures right at the end of each print for both the mid pieces. I've checked and recalibrated the machine a few times. I've reoriented the print on the bed to see if that changes anything and I'm still experiencing failures right at the end where the print comes undone from the bed. I'm using the cool bed with glue and have never experienced a repeating issue like this. It stinks because I'm running through filament. Anyone else experiencing a similar issue because I'm running out of ideas.

The designer has replied
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Model Uploader

Hello! I'm really sorry to hear about those troubles. I haven't used the cool plate, so can't give advice on that aspect specifically. I would probably recommend a smooth PEI if you've got one! Otherwise though, on the X1/P1 series, I've found the aux fan causes a lot of troubles when left at it's default settings, and I tend to turn it off, especially for larger prints like this. Otherwise I think I would look into upping the size of the brim width and adjusting the brim-object gap. Try and create some more surface area for the bed to grab onto!

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