May seem like a silly question, but what do you mean by "added modifiers to remove top and bottom layer"? and how did you do it? Also, does it make the spool flimsy? I read on one of the remixes that the spool was flimsy and they recommended ABS to stiffen it.

It is more "flexible", but not what I call flimsy - I was considering splitting the area in half again to add four more spokes to the next one. You can add or combine geometry in the slicer and Assemble it into one structure, you can select the part of the geometry you want to change and change it to a modifier - from there you can make changes to the modifier (like in my case the no top and bottom layers, but it could be colour too) and that will only affect the parts within that modifier.

I added extra spokes and it is pretty solid and slightly increased the infill percentage - I added/uploaded my print profile if you were interested in printing it.

They look awesome!

They are!!

can you please tell me the filament you used? The black sparkle texture caught my eye!

That actually looks pretty cool! would take less filament and probably prints faster. You should upload that profile. I’ve not had any issues with the honeycomb falling out. does it hold the filament well?

holds just fine. i only used petg for it, cant speak for if pla is durable enough. I got my speedy profile down to about 4.5 hours for a full spool. 10 spools into them. still need several more because that one time I went to microcenter and bought 40 rolls of inland on sale for like $10 a roll. the honeycomb issue is probably because my petg was under extruding slightly. thus cause an issue between the "inner wall" trying to link with the "outer wall" between the 2 walls that go around the honeycomb and the 2 walls that go around in the other direction. so I essentially was able to just flex it and pop out the honeycomb as an insert, I adjusted my flow up 2% but never went back to the honeycomb to test because it saves time and filament the way I had it anyways unless you wanted a pattern

Nice, I really wish I had a microcenter near me, there are not any in Washington State.

yeah, seeing how much was on the roll was my goal. Is that transparent PLA or PETG?

PLA

Transparent PLA

That happens because my modification just removes the top and bottom layer in the honeycomb area to reveal the infill. That bridging is what normally happens when the first layer of a top layer is laid down over infill. This ensures that the next layer of the top layer has a good base to print on. Unfortunately, since I've removed the top layer in that area that first layer is exposed, and we see the bridging. As far as I know it can't be fixed.

I did notice that when I made the multicolored version of this spool it basically treats the honeycombed area as a separate model and that bridging doesn't show up.

You can prevent this if you set the modifier you are using to remove the top to also have a wall count to 4. This will cause the slicer to put walls around the section with the removed top/bottom and avoid the weird solid infill issue.

I cant get any cardboard roll to fix on the Bambu spools

Note there's a notch in this overture spool and a notch on the bambu spool You mist align them and pull a little tail of filament through then twist slightly to lock it in. I used this once before I started using the DesignCraft rings which simply snap onto the overture cardboard spools...way faster...way easier...and no chance of the filament despooling trying to get it onto these.

do you have a lot of success with the rings on cardboard spools?

Glad it works for you. It has been brought to my attention that the transparent labels are hard to see. I’m currently away from home and won’t be back home until the end of May, so won’t be able to modify the profile so that the label area is solid for easier reading. I use my spools for Polymaker filament and I create my own labels using a label maker so my labels are solid. So I didn’t notice the issue with the labels. I also print my spools with ABS so if I need to dry my PLA the ABS can handle the filament dryer temps when drying. I’ve had no strength issues with ABS.

Thanks for the rating. Looks great. Just remember not to use this spool when drying your filament, the PLA may warp on you.

good point ^^ Any recommendations when I want to dry ABS and other filaments that I dry at around 65°c ?

Wish I did, I'm not sure what is going to happen when drying ABS, I've not had to do it yet, but when I do, I'm going to be keeping an eye on the spool. No matter what we print it in there could come a time that we need to dry the same type of filament that the spool is printed in. Even if I were to print them with Nylon, I might have to dry some Nylon on the Nylon spool. But most of the spools I have to dry are PLA, PETG, and TPU.

looking good! if you find this version a little too flimsy I have uploaded a version two of this profile that is much stronger. Enjoy!

It is not flimsy at all, i used Bambu PLA Basic, but next time i will try out version 2 ! Thanks for the design !

Sounds g