Orbiting Light Display with Martian City

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Orbiting Light Display with Martian City

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A1 mini

Lamp Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Lamp Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
12 h
3 plates
5.0(4)

Lamp Base - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Lamp Base - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
13.8 h
4 plates

Martian City - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Martian City - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
10.8 h
2 plates
5.0(1)

Martian City - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Martian City - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
12 h
3 plates

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Description

We make so many interesting objects in this hobby and this base is a way to show them off! The brightness of the light is adjustable along with speed of rotation - you can even make it stand still. 

This base works well to display 3D prints or any objects d'art. This file includes a Martian city model that is sized perfectly to fit within the space for this base and includes lots of shapes and translucent elements to take advantage of the rotating light. For the city, I tried to imagine how certain areas might be open to the sunlight (parks, farms) while other areas are enclosed and connected by travel through tubes. See it in motion:

Components

All of the components for this project are available from Maker's Supply except for the slip ring - here's the specific one on AliExpress that I used

Assembly Instructions (Lamp)

Printed Parts

  1. Electronics Base
  2. Mid Base
  3. Top
  4. Collar
  5. LED Holder
  6. Gear
  7. Motor Holder
  8. Wire Clips
  9. Potentiometer Dials
  10. Power Switch

The images in the these instructions were taken after several parts were already assembled. Please disregard any components seen already installed in some of the initial steps - those components will be covered in later steps.

Press the bearing onto the core top. This won't go all the way to the bottom but should be a snug, level fit. 

Clip one of the SH1.0 wires in half and solder the connectors to the wires on either end of the slip ring. 

  • You will need to use a multimeter to confirm which wire to solder to which & should test this by connecting the LED to one end and the power distribution board to the other before continuing assembly. 
  • It is recommended to add some shrink tubing to the wires. In this photo I had only added it to one side so far.

Pass the wires from the bottom of the slip ring through the hole shown in the electronics base.

  • Note the orientation of the slip ring.
  • Pull the wires so that they are snug with the slip ring at the bottom of the base.

Attach SH1.0 wires to both potentiometers and the power switch.

  • Slide these components into the slots in the base as shown with the power button in the middle.
  • Pay careful attention to the orientation. The power port should be towards the top of the base and pointing towards the right (when viewed from the inside)
  • Press the printed potentiometer dials and power switch through the outside of the base and onto the components to confirm the fit. 
  • Note that the power switch only fits in one orientation. If it's not fitting, try rotating it 90 degrees. 
  • The power switch only has a narrow channel for placement. Try to keep it vertical when applying only light pressure.

Attach all cables to the power distribution board as in the diagram:

  1. Power in
  2. Motor
  3. LED
  4. Power Switch
  5. Potentiometer
  6. Potentiometer

Attach the internal components. Note that you should try to use the loops in the base to ensure that wires will be contained. Because the gears will be exposed, this is important so that the wires do not get caught.

  1. Attach the SH1.0 wire to the motor and place it in the channel. 
  2. Attach the motor cover with 2 screws. This should be a snug fit but the wire should be able to slightly wiggle some. If it's too tight, the motor can seize up.
  3. Press the gear onto the motor. Be sure to align the shape of the gear shaft on the motor to the gear. Press this down fully.
  4. Attach the power distribution board using 2 screws.
Pass through the potentiometer wires and attach the core top to the base with 4 screws.

Starting at the top, press the COB led into the LED holder. 

  • Keep the more opaque side pointing out.
  • Only moderate pressure should be needed.

Attach the LED holder and the collar to the mid base.

  • The LED holder will use 2 screws
  • The collar will use 4 screws. Note the alignment as it is at an angle. 

Both pieces should be attached firmly with minimal to no gaps.

Press the mid base down onto the bearing.

  • Before applying much pressure, ensure that the gears are aligned.
  • The holes on the sides of the mid base can be used if you need to disassemble this part in the future.

Attach the wire to the LED

  1. The LED should slide snugly into the shown channel.
  2. The wire coming from the slip ring should be snug into this channel. This is important because the wire being tight will help ensure that it rotates smoothly without getting twisted (causing friction, noise and potential failure of components)
  3. Depending on the length of your wire, you can pass it through these channels and wrap it around the posts so that it is secured. 
  4. Use the provided clips to hold the wires in place. Try to avoid gluing these but glue can be used if needed.

The goal with this process is to ensure that no wire is loose to cause friction with (and possibly snag on) the top which will be added in the next step.

Plug in the power and test the base to ensure that it's rotating freely without any friction or loose wires.
Slide the 5mm dowel into the top piece. This should be a very snug fit and may require pressing the part against a hard surface like a table.

Press the top down onto the base.

  • You'll need to carefully align the dowel to the inside of the slip ring.
  • There's a slot in the base that the dowel can press into.
  • If you need to disassemble this in the future, there's a small hole on the underside of the base where you can insert a small screwdriver to help press the dowel out of place.


 

Assembly Instructions (City)

  1. Loosen the sliding LED-holding clips. Depending on your filament, this can take some force. I find that extending something sturdy (like pliers) through the hold can allow you to exert even pressure with both hands. Slide the LEDs into the slots and then close the holding clips to keep them in place.
  2. Place the small printed park part inside the smaller acrylic tube and rest it into place.
  3. Place this buildings - note that some have slots for small downs and bearings which can be pressed into place first. The buildings will either press into a slot or loosely sit on the base. You can use glue if you'd like but it shouldn't be needed.
  4. Assemble the 'farm' by pressing pressing the large acrylic tube into the base - place the small white disc at the bottom. Press the 5mm down into the triangular base and then slide the 3 platforms onto the dowel. Place (or glue) the different tree sections onto these platforms and then place the whole assembly into the acrylic tube. Place the top pieces of the 'farm' onto the acrylic tube: the rim goes on first, then the pointed diffuser, then the LED (which remains inside) and finally the cap.
  5. Run the silicon tubes as shown in the closeup photos on this model page - you will need to trim them to fit and glue will be needed to attach the tube into the slot that does not use a metal bearing.

 

Printing & Post-Processing Tips

  • I have only tested these models in PLA using the filaments listed.
  • For the trees in the 'farm' section of the City, I just used acrylic paint on top of PLA Wood filament although you could easily just use green filament. 
  • The textures in the model should print well with a 0.4mm nozzle - I haven't tested with other sizes. Quixel scans were utilized for initial rock textures.
  • A smooth plate is recommended for the parts facing up on the base - this can help hide the border between the rotating light base and the stationary center.

Updates

  • 3/22/25: Optimized part layout so that 1 fewer plate is required for both base print profiles and to default to the Smooth PEI plate.
  • 4/16/25: Updated the Bill of Materials to remove the components needed for the Martian city & this caused confusion for some users. If you'd like to build this part of the project, you will need to order those components individually.

 

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Bill of Materials

Bambu Filaments
A15-B0-1.75-1000-SPL
27.99 USD
 × 1
A16-R0-1.75-1000-SPL
27.99 USD
 × 1
A01-W3-1.75-1000-SPLFREE
19.99 USD
 × 1
A07-R5-1.75-1000-SPL
27.99 USD
 × 1
List other parts
  • 5mm Hole 2/4/6/12 Channels 2A Hollow Shaft 22mm Slip Ring x 1: $6.15 from AliExpress as noted in model description

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Comment & Rating (58)

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Lamp Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
I finally got the parts I needed and got around to soldering the wiring. I won't deny I hit a couple of snags, but the end result works wonderfully! Filament was Eryone PLA Burnt Titanium blue. One thing I did change was the table to be concentric fill for the initial layer. I felt it went better with the circular theme. Boosted, obviously!
GIF
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thank you for sharing photos and that's a really good idea for the initial layer - I'll update the profile to use that!
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Martian City - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Really cool city, only still have to print the rotating lamp base
The profile uploader has replied
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thanks so much for sharing your photos! you're the first person that has posted these and it's really fun to see
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Replying to @MaKim :
Thanks, no problem! I will upload some photo’s from the base if ive printed it too :)
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Hi @MaKim , I think this is going to be a great model! I've printed off the parts while waiting for the slip ring to come through from AliExpress. I'm going through the electronics and want to confirm something. The electronic bundle comes with 4x SH1.0 wires. Your assembly instructions seem to call for 5x SH1.0 wires. 1 wire to cut in half and solder with the slip ring wires (1) 1 wire for each potentiometer (2) 1 wire for the switch (1) 1 wire for the motor (1) That's (5) wires. You also say to put a jumper in port SW0, but isn't that where the switch gets plugged in?
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hello! you are correct that a total of 5 sh1.0 wires are needed - only 4 come with the electronics bundle but one extra comes with the motor. If the motor one is shorter, it's a good candidate to sacrifice for cutting in half and soldering. good catch on the diagram for the power distribution board - you are correct that it should be the switch and not a jumper. I'm out of town until Saturday but will update that graphic
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Replying to @MaKim :
Now I look a total idiot! I dug around inside the box of the motor and found the 5th SH1.0 wire! I just have to wait for the slip rings to ship from China and then I can put it together.
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Replying to @ZenithUK :
oh no not at all - I have missed them too because they can hide in the paper packing
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Print Profile
Lamp Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Everything came out great! Was able to get the slip ring from Ali and assembled everything today. I did add 2 negative squares to the thumbscrews to make lines in them as indicator lines. But other than that I printed it as is (besides color changes).
GIF
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love the color and texture on the base - thank you for sharing your photo!
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Lamp Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Very nice display stand too, im only having a issue that lamp vibrates while moving, is there a way to solve this?
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hello - I do think there will be a tiny amount of vibration from the motor and gears but shouldn't be too much. a couple of things that might be worth checking: is the rotating ring pumping into the static pieces at any point? Are the wires leading to the LED possibly dragging against the static portion of the base? if so, you may want to tape them down flush with some sticky tape. Alternately, it could be worth checking that the motor is securely attached along with the motor gear making good contact with the central gear.
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Someone should remix this into an indoor sundial clock...
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Wow, it's truly incredible
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thanks :)
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Super visually appealing
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thank you!
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very nice works
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thanks - glad to hear it!
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Absolutely superb.
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thank you!
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Printed one model and awaiting parts for a second model. Fantastic model. Will use this model to display the ordered statues of my grandchildren in their cheer competition outfits. Will post pics when completed.
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that's awesome! yes please do share your photos - I'd love to see it
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